Another help me get this engine started! Thread Options

[Literati914]

1.7 that was supposedly rebuilt just before I purchased the project approx 7 year ago. Never started before. D-jet. Electronic unit replacing the orig. points. Engine currently installed in the engine bay. I primed the oil system the other day and now the idiot light will go out after a couple seconds of cranking.

About the 3rd time or so of trying to start the engine.. it seemed to have lit, it only lasted about 2 seconds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) but it felt good, like it wouldn’t take long. Unfortunately it’s not done much but turn over strong since then. Sometimes it’ll do a little shuffle like it’s gonna start, but no.

I checked the plugs and they have spark, they seemed slightly damp at the electrodes, I also pulled the little small extra bolt on the fuel rail at the driver’s side to see if fuel was making it to the injectors and yes it is apparently.

This 1.7 has a fan with 2 markings… a “0” and an “|” …. Haynes says it’s supposed to have 3 markings but mine does not. If I insert a screwdriver into #1 cylinder and manually bring the fan around via a wrench on the alternator bolt (pulling it towards me from the driver’s side).. I come to the “|” first, before the piston is completely at the top. So I’m speculating that “|” is 5degrees btdc . And this is the mark I’m using to set my distributor. Does that sound right?

[Superhawk996]

Any fuel pressure test gauge will work but you need a gauge capable of reading up to about 65psi to cover the pump you are using which is supposed to have a pressure range of 45-65 psi according to what I found online for that pump.

Harbor freight version shown but could be any gauge rated for use with fuels with an appropriate pressure range.

I’d just rig up a T or use the one in the kit. Using the T you can plumb it in on the output of your fuel pump to make sure the pump is outputting pressure.

You can then plumb the T into the fuel rail loop to verify you have 29 psi at the injectors.

If you really care you can plumb it into the fuel return line and see what the pressure is there (who cares).

You still haven’t confirmed that you have the fuel pressure regulator plumbed correctly at the END of the fuel loop. This isn’t optional. Review the diagram Spoke posted in post #33.

The fuel pressure regulator system is designed to have the regulator bleeding off excess flow to the return line while maintaining about 30psi of pressure in the fuel rail loop.

Stated differently — the regulator ISN’T designed to take in some fuel pump pressure (let’s just say 50 psi) and output 30 psi of regulated pressure on the front end of the fuel loop. Stated differently one more time - the fuel pressure regulator doesn’t work like an 2 port air pressure regulator.



Hot wire your fuel pump if need be to do the pressure testing so you’re not dependent on the ECU to pulse the pump at key on or to be receiving a signal from the trigger points to run the pump during cranking.