Need Crumple Zone Repair Advice, Repairing LH inner wheel well crumple zone Options

[didenpx]

I'd appreciate advice on how to go about repairing some old collision damage from a rear LH impact that deformed the crumple zone. In the photo you may be able to make out a vertical crease that was previously straightened out just behind the rear strut and going from the bottom pinch seam up the top of the inner wheel well (maybe beyond that....still cleaning out the undercoating).

The evidence that I've found of the impact so far includes:
-The rear quarter/rear of door gap was too tight (maybe 1-2mm throughout)
-Area around the old crease is dented in several MM
-There's a lot of subtle deformation (high and low spots) between between the old crease and continuing forward of the rear strut
-There's some booger welding around the rear suspension console
-There was some deformation of the top of the rear quarter above the creased area (subtle bumps that weren't visible but that you could feel)
-The rear trunk lid was pushed forward, probably breaking the LH hinge pivot (was replaced by PO with a screw-in pivot point and fitted with gas struts to hold lid open)

What I'm wondering:
-How can I tell where the inner wheel well skin is/is not deformed? What's the proper profile in this area (straight, curved, etc)?
-How should I deal with the deformation on the skin of the inner wheel well? Should I remove spot welds, cut it out, and replace it? Or could I get away with pulling out the low spots with a stud welder?
-How can I tell if the impact messed up any of the structure between the inner wheel well skin and the interior of the trunk? What measurement points can I use to tell if that structure has shifted?
-How can I measure to make sure the top of the inner wheel well panel where the rear quarter attaches is at the right height after repair?
-How can I tell if the suspension console is properly located given the impact damage and evidence of booger welding there?
-How the hell did I ever think I was going to get this car on the road by this Spring?

[didenpx]

As best as I can tell doing measurements of the rear suspension mounting points (again, engine in) using a laser level, everything seems to be correctly located. I measured 139mm on center from the top of the head of the forward bolts in the console, and they are within 2mm of each other in level.

I did all of the rear measurements from here:http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php

Surprisingly they are close to good:
-R: 135.5 measured vs factory 135.9
-Q: 78.6 measured vs factory 77.8
-S: this one stumped me. The description says to measure from the lip for the gasket, but the photo seems to show measuring to the bottom part of the trunk hinge when it is upright. Measuring vs the hinge I got 157.5 - 158.5 across range of hinge in/out motion vs 158.8 factory.

However with the car perfectly leveled it's clear that the left hand inner structure is sitting about 1cm high. You can see from the photos below that the damage seems to be isolated to the wheel well back to the rear panel and rear of trunk floor (which I'll be replacing).

Based on the above I'm currently thinking of cutting out just enough of the inner wheel well to access the crease on the inner shock tower and using a stud welder to pull that back into shape, then use the stud welder to pull out all of the inner wheel well structure, starting fro the front of the panel and working back towards the impact.

Once that's done I will see if it has brought the top of the wheel well down the ~1cm. If not I'm thinking of bacing the car so the front can't lift upwards and using a frame jack to try to push the wheel well structure down (I've got a very low ceiling and could jack off of a 2 x 6 across some joists down onto the panel.

Looking for feedback and reactions.

Thanks!