Whats wrong with our ignition switches?, What do we know? Options

[JeffBowlsby]

"Ignition switches are junk"

Regularly hear this and similar consternation.

I have continuously owned one or more 914s since 1998...think I have replaced only 1 ignition switches over that time, in one car. My current primary car I have had for over twenty years, still on the original switch as far as I know, I have not replaced it during my ownership.

None my cars have ever had the added relay although I'm not against it.

For those switches removed and in other key ignition switches I have opened up, what I see is part of the housing is cracked in similar locations. Maybe from years of torquing the key over? Not sure. I don't see melted housings (believe they are nylon), no smoke residue or anything out of line, just the cracked housing. Suspect the cracked housing causes some internal misalignment of the internal contacts...i.e. the switch goes bad and needs replacement.

I am thinking the problem is the switch housings that break, not anything to do with excessive current flow through the switch.

Educate me please.

[davep]

It was about 1975 that I purchased a used 73 914. I have driven about 6 of them over the years. I think I have had to replace 3 switches. Yes, the plastic fails over time, that is a given; I won't go into details of why, but essentially it is just aging. The contacts themselves also age with time & use.
If a car is well cared for then it should start easily; essentially very quickly without undue cranking. If the car is hard to start, then a heavy current flows for much longer through the ignition switch, the wires and the interlock relay (if not bypassed) thus causing incremental damage. Every wire connection has resistance and the heavier the current the greater the heat in that connection. Over time that heat causes additional resistance in that connection.
Personally, I do not like the high current through the ignition switch; that is un-needed current through the power wires to the fuse panel, and then all the way back to the starter. It is always best to keep the high current wires short and heavy. And let us not forget the body that is the primary ground current carrier. I have had cars where the body was compromised and although the ground stud at the battery appeared solid, it would not carry the starter current adequately.
Well, yes there are current limiting circuits; that is the purpose of the fuse box. Some circuits are not fused however.
Also, a motor such as the starter will always present a short circuit to the battery (except for the resistance of the wires themselves) until the motor starts to turn. If you have ever tried to measure the starting current of a motor then you know it is essentially futile. Initially it is nearly infinite, but rapidly drops as the battery voltage falls and the starter rotor starts to turn. To measure the current you need a really fast digital storage scope.
My own personally constructed harness will utilize a relay near the starter to handle the solenoid current.