Weber 40 IDF help, My usual guy had back surgery and can't help now Options

[mmichalik]

Hi everyone,
My 75 is ready to drive again. I fixed the oil leak from the main seal a couple of weeks ago and all is good.
As I continue to do the shake out of the car, since I'm on the tail end of the restoration, I've had one problem the entire time and I need to get it fixed now.
Cold or hot, as I'm driving there's a flat spot when I shift between gears. It bogs and then picks up again.
It's particularly noticeable from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Sometimes even when starting for a dead stop.
I know NOTHING about carbs but I'm willing to jump in.
Does anyone have any experience with these symptoms? Is there a write up on the world that I've missed?
Would anyone be willing to work for high end craft beer and good pizza (along with an hourly rate) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I'm in north county inland San Diego (Valley Center)
Mike

[nditiz1]

So 2 things will be needed, 1 of which is easy and the other will require a purchase and some welding (well they do make a bolt on bung)

1st we need to know what jets are in there now. Pull one from the side (idle jet), pull the top stack (main, air, emulsion). If these are brand new Weber IDF or even old stock ones you are probably running something like this:

50 idle
115 main
180/200 air (can't remember which one came factory)
F11 emulsion
28mm venturis

The 2nd item that is needed is an AFR gauge. I usually use an AEM UEOG wideband, but you can use whichever you like. They even have a fancy bluetooth one that shows on your phone so no need for an additional pod. You will need to have a bung welded into your muffler or exhaust. Preferably both sides, but one in the muffler should suffice. There is another option in LM2 (if memory serves) that connects to the end of the muffler tip to get a reading on AFR. Never used that one.

OR you can just keep making minor changes until it "feels" right, but you could be overly rich and not know it.