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Ron914 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 326 Joined: 19-April 22 From: Huntington Beach,Ca Member No.: 26,487 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
@emerygt350
I was asked my a member helping me with my high idle /vacuum leak problem how I currently have it hooked up .This is the diagram I am using . ![]() |
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emerygt350 |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,883 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I suggest an aem O2 sensor and gauge, I have tried others and I think they are a little more accepting of our air-cooled not the best afr controlled engines. The more expensive alternatives are a little too picky and seem to shut down if it's too rich or lean. You will want to have access while driving so you either have to snake the cable in the tunnel or you can do a removable version where you run the wire through the window or even tape it or suction mount it on the engine lid and look at it through the rear view mirror (I did that for a little while).
To really make your life easier when it comes tuning time, you want a vacuum gauge as well. They are super cheap and I run mine off a t on the line to the decel. Tuning it is actually pretty easy but it takes time and patience to see how it responds to varying levels of vacuum and load, and then adjusting the correct part of the mps. We can all help when it comes to that. Having a cht, afr, and vacuum on the console is really great and that cht is essential to keep your heads happy. Dakota digital is really the go-to for the cht. If you have to run a wire up the tunnel, you might as well run two and a vacuum line. My PO actually ran a wire through it by drilling a hole so I just piggybacked on that. I wouldn't suggest doing that but there are other ways to get into the tunnel from the engine compartment. |
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