1976 2.0L D-jet, distributor vacuum Options

[Ron914]

@emerygt350
I was asked my a member helping me with my high idle /vacuum leak problem how I currently have it hooked up .This is the diagram I am using .

[emerygt350]

I suggest an aem O2 sensor and gauge, I have tried others and I think they are a little more accepting of our air-cooled not the best afr controlled engines. The more expensive alternatives are a little too picky and seem to shut down if it's too rich or lean. You will want to have access while driving so you either have to snake the cable in the tunnel or you can do a removable version where you run the wire through the window or even tape it or suction mount it on the engine lid and look at it through the rear view mirror (I did that for a little while).

To really make your life easier when it comes tuning time, you want a vacuum gauge as well. They are super cheap and I run mine off a t on the line to the decel.

Tuning it is actually pretty easy but it takes time and patience to see how it responds to varying levels of vacuum and load, and then adjusting the correct part of the mps. We can all help when it comes to that.

Having a cht, afr, and vacuum on the console is really great and that cht is essential to keep your heads happy. Dakota digital is really the go-to for the cht. If you have to run a wire up the tunnel, you might as well run two and a vacuum line. My PO actually ran a wire through it by drilling a hole so I just piggybacked on that. I wouldn't suggest doing that but there are other ways to get into the tunnel from the engine compartment.

[Ron914]

I suggest an aem O2 sensor and gauge, I have tried others and I think they are a little more accepting of our air-cooled not the best afr controlled engines. The more expensive alternatives are a little too picky and seem to shut down if it's too rich or lean. You will want to have access while driving so you either have to snake the cable in the tunnel or you can do a removable version where you run the wire through the window or even tape it or suction mount it on the engine lid and look at it through the rear view mirror (I did that for a little while).

To really make your life easier when it comes tuning time, you want a vacuum gauge as well. They are super cheap and I run mine off a t on the line to the decel.

Tuning it is actually pretty easy but it takes time and patience to see how it responds to varying levels of vacuum and load, and then adjusting the correct part of the mps. We can all help when it comes to that.

Having a cht, afr, and vacuum on the console is really great and that cht is essential to keep your heads happy. Dakota digital is really the go-to for the cht. If you have to run a wire up the tunnel, you might as well run two and a vacuum line. My PO actually ran a wire through it by drilling a hole so I just piggybacked on that. I wouldn't suggest doing that but there are other ways to get into the tunnel from the engine compartment.

I actually have a hole in my firewall from the PO who needed a large #10 wire for the stereo amplifier that I removed but since I left the wire in I now have a pull lead . I will check .I will check out the AEM 02 sensor and gauge , there was a member who recently posted a 3D printed two gauge adapter that replaces the ash tray that I don't use anyway and my clock like most of us is only correct two times a day .I will also look at the Dakota digital gauge and sensor for the CHT ,I would imagine any old vacuum gauge would do .
I just drove the car and it runs ok but stumbles a bit and then smooths out. I checked the dizzy plates by sucking and watching them and sprayed a little silicone even though they seem to be moving adequately . Oil temp did not spike like before ,I believe the flaps moved on me so I will need to connect the return spring properly .