MPS, Rebuilding the MPS Options

[Ron914]

Hello to all who have helped me with this project . @emerygt350 ,@TJB/914, @Superhawk996 , @ChrisFoley , @rjames , @MDTerp
I am in the middle of rebuilding my MPS and have a couple of comments and questions .
First when I opened up the unit I found the most difficult job was removing the rivets holding the two halves together.
When I removed the retainer plate to take out the old diaphragm it was in two pieces .

I needed to take two measurements since I was replacing the stop screw , I needed to measure the the stop screw protrusion into the housing . The instruction sheet sent to me by a member had the measurements he must have made when rebuilding his MPS . His stop screw protrusion was 1.97mm and mine only measured 1.72mm.
His inner/outer screw assembly depth in the old diaphragm measured 6.51mm .
Here's one of my questions ?
when I measured mine I got two measurements depth to inner/outer screw assembly was 4.03
and depth to the washer outside the inner/outer screw assembly was 5.46mm.
Again there is a difference and since mine was never accessed before (epoxy over screw was not disturbed) is the difference in measurements ok and which measurement should I use I will try to attach a photo or two to help with my question.
this one .

I have not touched either of these measurements yet and awaiting any help/comments.
I think it's this one to the washer on diaphragm .

[rjames]

There is an art (and likely some luck) in getting the MPS to fully seal, even when you put things back together correctly. One thing that I've had good luck with is tightening each of the screws (or nuts/bolts) that replaced the rivets a little at a time before moving to the opposite one, similarly to how you would tighten lug nuts so that you tighten the whole thing down as evenly as possible.

[Ron914]

There is an art (and likely some luck) in getting the MPS to fully seal, even when you put things back together correctly. One thing that I've had good luck with is tightening each of the screws (or nuts/bolts) that replaced the rivets a little at a time before moving to the opposite one, similarly to how you would tighten lug nuts so that you tighten the whole thing down as evenly as possible.

I checked the trigger points and they are switching between 12 &21 ,12&22 with good continuity back to the ECU . I lightly rubbed grease on both sides of the paper gasket so I will take it all apart again and reddit .I did tighten the screws opposite of each other like lug nuts but I will just have to open it and try it again ,I will add silicone to the large ring , to get to the little one I will have to redo the adjustments . Not sure if I want to mess with that but if still leaking I will redo everything .Is the fuel pump relay the large rectangle silver one ? Still waiting on neighbor to test the plugs . I think I read somewhere what is needed and how to connect a remote starter ,this would be handy .