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VaccaRabite |
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,736 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I have recently changed my brake master, and I've had some issues.
One of the things that was suggested was that the rod from the brake pedal to the master may not be the correct depth. The rod was set perfectly for the prior master, but that was 17 years ago. I'm going to pull the pedal cluster out to check depth. What is the right way to make sure the plunger is the right length? Zach |
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bdstone914 |
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bdstone914 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,931 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 ![]() |
I have recently changed my brake master, and I've had some issues. One of the things that was suggested was that the rod from the brake pedal to the master may not be the correct depth. The rod was set perfectly for the prior master, but that was 17 years ago. I'm going to pull the pedal cluster out to check depth. What is the right way to make sure the plunger is the right length? Zach You don't need to pull the cluster to check the depth. The rid should allow about 1" brake oedal movement before it moves the piston on the master cylinder. That is per the factory spec. I like less play. Loosen the jam nut on the brake rod and turn it to extend the lenght. You should be able to feel when it is starting to move the piston. The tmrod has a nut to turn it but it is best done by hand. By any chance was the previous master sized. I see brake rods that are bent on a lot of pedal sets. I think that they bend when the master is siezed and extreme force is used to depress the pedal. Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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