Turn signal indicator lights come on with key Options

[GeorgeKopf]

I'm wring my 1973 wiring harness and have a bunch of things installed which seem to be working correctly (i.e. headlights (high & low beam), headlight motors, turn signals, running lights, tail lights)

But (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) the turn signal indicators are always on!

I've traced the flow of current from the fuse panel (red with white stripe) to the hazard switch, from there (red) to the relay and from there to the turn signal indicators (blue with white stripe).

47 is the relay
31 is the hazard switch
22 is the turn signal lights
26 is the steering column switch


I have two relays and both seem to work fine. When I pull out the hazard switch the indicators and lights all blink. When I set the turn signal that side blinks.

I have two hazard switches and both behave the same way. As soon as I connect the red and red/white wires the turn signal indicators come on.
With the knob pushed in, I have continuity between the red/white (power in) and the red (power out to the relay).
With the knob pulled out, I have continuity between the black/red (power in) and the red (power out to the relay). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

More information:
I have cleaned all grounding studs.
I disassembled one of the relays and cleaned it.
If I disconnect all of the wires from the hazard switch except for the red/white and the red, the signal indicators come on and stay on. Doesn't this mean that my relay is bad? It should be getting power so that it can feed the turn signal indicators when the turn signals are set.

It seems that the relay is allowing the input power to the blue/white wires when it shouldn't.

If so, is there a good way to test or repair them?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

George

[GeorgeKopf]

@Spoke You said:

"An easy workaround which I did on my 914 is to remove the common wire at the indicators and tape them off. Then make a pigtail like shown below. The piggyback connector goes under the tach ground (brown wire) and the 2 female spades go to each indicator."

This should be an easy test since my dash is off, and all the gauge wires are exposed.

My flasher relay is only labeled:
....49
49a....C
....31.......(see below)

......................................Relay #1................................Relay #2
Between 31 and 49a:..there is no continuity..................there is no continuity
Between 31 and 49:....resistance is 812 ohms...............there is no continuity
Between 31 and C:.....resistance is 876 ohms..............there is no continuity
Between 49a and 49:..there is no continuity..................there is no continuity
between 49a and C:....there is no continuity..................there is no continuity
Between 49 and C:......resistance is 850 ohms...............resistance is 48 ohms


Lastly, I poked and prodded all the little switches in the mechanisms and some of the above numbers changed significantly.



Thanks.

George

[Spoke]

My flasher relay is only labeled:
....49
49a....C
....31.......

This is the same pinout as EP26. EP36 is the same minus the C pin.

Out of the box for EP26 the C pin is open and does nothing. I resell EP26 with the C pin connected to ground for separate L and R. For the single L/R indicator cars, the C pin is connected to 49 via the internal relay when active.

As mentioned before, the K/C2/C pin only has value for all incandescent turnsignals when it operates properly. If one installs LED turnsignals, the pin is worthless. Also over the years, the efficiency of the coil decreases (the large gauge coil in the picture) for K/C/C2 to the point where an indicator may flash once then both flash together.

Unless you really want the alert feature of the K/C2/C pin for burned bulbs, life is simplified by grounding the common connection of the indicators or installing EP26 with K/C2/C pin grounded internally.