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Literati914 |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,983 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
1.7 w/ original D-jet.
I have the idle screw on the TB cranked all the way down/closed (which doesn't seem right tbh) and the car's idleing around 900rpm - which is within the recommended 850+/- , and the idle does not really "surge" too much but is not necessarily rock steady either. I'm also getting a steady 16.5 A/F on my gauge during idle and warm driving. So too lean. BTW, the CHT gauge has never gotten over 300 so it's not trying to over heat. I'll be spraying the vacuum connections to see if I can find leaks - but other than that, what would be the most obvious culprit(s)? My theory is that the idle screw needing to be closed (for a reasonable idle) is just combating say, a bad AAR or something. Sound logical? What tests can I do to the AAR or other items to look at first? |
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Ishley |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 219 Joined: 4-October 21 From: Clarendon Hills Il Member No.: 25,957 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
My 72 ECU knob does nothing. I have an Air fuel gauge and I see nothing from turning at idle. My guess is the knob is toast. I’d replace it but overall I’m happy with how it runs and the mix that I see on the AFR. I did spend a lot of time tweaking my Manifold
Pressure sensor to get it dialed in. This was necessary because I rebuilt to a 2056 with a different cam and heads and 2.0 injectors. |
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