1970 combo gauge wiring Options

[Cfletch]

Looking for some specific help here regarding a 1970 Combo gauge and wiring.

Basically I need to install my new combo gauge that has 3 separate gauges in for fuel, oil temp and oil pressure. I had John Bell make this gauge for me. I can't find a good wiring diagram that will show me colors of wires and where they belong on the back of even a normal combo gauge for that era and I am a little stuck.

Gauge has the above, but also the original normal stuff such as brake, alternator, oil pressure light and all of that. Can someone point me ideally a color coded wiring diagram specifically for the gauges so I can connect up the normal stock stuff and then worry about the new stuff such as oil temp and pressure?

[Dave_Darling]

Use the regular wiring for the warning lights and the fuel gauge.

You will have to run wires for the oil temp and oil pressure, in addition to having senders for those. (The 911 engine should have them already; a 1970 1.7 will only have a sender for the oil pressure light which will not run a gauge correctly.)

Generally, the gauges will need switched power and possibly a separate ground, though often the sender itself provides the ground for the gauge. Additionally, there will often lights for illuminating the gauge itself.

Look on the connector on the gauge module for numbers and symbols. There will likely be something like "30" for switched power, and "G" for the sender, and a set of three parallel lines for the ground. Illumination lights will just have a socket.

For power, use a piggyback electrical connector (double check the sizes; that is just an example!) from the power connection of the one gauge module and daisy chain to the other two. You can similarly extend the illumination light power supply and ground if need be.

--DD

[Cfletch]

Use the regular wiring for the warning lights and the fuel gauge.

You will have to run wires for the oil temp and oil pressure, in addition to having senders for those. (The 911 engine should have them already; a 1970 1.7 will only have a sender for the oil pressure light which will not run a gauge correctly.)

Generally, the gauges will need switched power and possibly a separate ground, though often the sender itself provides the ground for the gauge. Additionally, there will often lights for illuminating the gauge itself.

Look on the connector on the gauge module for numbers and symbols. There will likely be something like "30" for switched power, and "G" for the sender, and a set of three parallel lines for the ground. Illumination lights will just have a socket.

For power, use a piggyback electrical connector (double check the sizes; that is just an example!) from the power connection of the one gauge module and daisy chain to the other two. You can similarly extend the illumination light power supply and ground if need be.


Dave, this is what I needed. I somehow was not mentally making the connection between what wires I had vs what is needed in terms of creating ground and power for the new gauges. Perry helped me with the signal wires to the correcy portion of the gauge, but i didn't know what plugs in where on it as well as that it needed its own respective ground and switched power.

Im coming from 1960's Lucas wiring on my MGB to this and theres some key differences of course so that was new to me.

I played around today with the connections and made a little temp switched power wire to see if I'm getting signal on oil temp and gas and it looks to be the case. Need to create the wire for the pressure, and the jumpers for power and ground.

Do they make insulated versions of the piggyback spades as you linked? Trying to look around and I am not seeing anything

--DD