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SKL1 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,717 Joined: 19-February 11 From: north Scottsdale Member No.: 12,732 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
I've noticed with my '71, which has about 120K miles on it, the voltmeter is pretty much always reading around 11 V regardless of speed or revs.
In my '73, which has about 77K miles on it, it reads 11 or so at start up and for the first couple miles and then goes up to between 12 and 13. I swapped the voltage regulators for the heck of it and it didn't change anything. Is the older alternator from the '71 just worn out?? Not looking forward to changing it with the engine in the car!! |
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Spoke |
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#2
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Jerry ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,195 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
The dash voltmeter on my '71 reads between 12-13.5V. The dash voltmeter is far away electrically from the battery to give accurate readings. You should check the battery voltage with a DMM.
Does the GEN light come on with key-on and go out when the engine is started? |
GregAmy |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,516 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
You should check the battery voltage with a DMM. +1. That console voltmeter is not consistently accurate (sometimes never). Mine used to flicker with the brake and turn signals and one time (before I replaced the fuse panel with the JWest one) I jostled the fuse loose with my knee while well away from home and it gave me a scare. That, along with desire for more knee room, was one of the driving factors for my removing the console gauges entirely. What matters is the voltage at the battery. Check it there. |
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