Hydraulic clutch (part 2), w/ pics for Ginter & y'all Options

[airsix]

Had lots of requests for pictures of the hydraulic clutch conversion, so here you go.
Things that have changed since the last episode:
1) re-did the slave mount. Got rid of the stupid pulley bracket and did it right.
2) MC install was a major PITA. Had to cut a chunk out of the pan and make a mounting surface that was flat and angled in the right direction.
3) I found that there is not enough room up next to the steering rack to cut a line and re-flare it after you have discovered that you slipped the flare-nut on backwards before plumbing all the lines (ARRRRGGG!!!!). That's ok, I did a better job the second time anyway.
4) Rebuilt pedal box while I was in there (Had the bronze bushing kit laying around). Thanks Lawrenece for your comments about this last week. I almost skipped it and saved it for another time. Glad I rebuilt it. Big difference.
Ok, here's the pics. (No pic from inside the car 'cuz you can't see anything with the pedal box in the way)
-Ben M.

[airsix]

And here's the slave with my dirty tranny in the background. Hose on slave cyl is just a chevy brake flex hose (used because it had the right fittings). Hose connects to steel line mounted to engine mount bar. Coupler at the firewall disconnects lines for engine removal. 3/16" steel line fits right down the clutch tube, through a grommet in the pan along-side the MC, and into the MC. There is a 2psi residual pressure valve in the line right at the MC. (Used since MC is lower than slave).

It works very well. The KEP stageII clutch feels much smoother and only slightly lighter than the stock cluthc with cable. I like it, but it was much more work than anticipated.
-Ben M.