Hydraulic clutch (part 2), w/ pics for Ginter & y'all Options

[airsix]

Had lots of requests for pictures of the hydraulic clutch conversion, so here you go.
Things that have changed since the last episode:
1) re-did the slave mount. Got rid of the stupid pulley bracket and did it right.
2) MC install was a major PITA. Had to cut a chunk out of the pan and make a mounting surface that was flat and angled in the right direction.
3) I found that there is not enough room up next to the steering rack to cut a line and re-flare it after you have discovered that you slipped the flare-nut on backwards before plumbing all the lines (ARRRRGGG!!!!). That's ok, I did a better job the second time anyway.
4) Rebuilt pedal box while I was in there (Had the bronze bushing kit laying around). Thanks Lawrenece for your comments about this last week. I almost skipped it and saved it for another time. Glad I rebuilt it. Big difference.
Ok, here's the pics. (No pic from inside the car 'cuz you can't see anything with the pedal box in the way)
-Ben M.

[airsix]

Parts details:

Tilton 7/8" aluminum master cyl. with remote reservoir (pitstopusa.com)
CNC "pull type" slave cyl. (pitstopusa.com)
Wilwood 2psi residual pressure vlave (pitstopusa.com)
FLAPS brake flex hose (just some hose with 3/16" flare fittings - male on one end, fem on other)
60" stick of 3/16" steel tube (through clutch tube)
24" stick of 3/16" steel tube (from firewall to slave cyl)
misc. brass fittings to connect stuff.
$7 tube flaring kit from Harbor Freight
slave cyl mount - fabricated from flat stock
slave cly-to-clutch-fork trunion - fabbed from steel (didn't trust little plastic OEM piece)
MC mount - fabricated from 14ga sheet
MC linkage - (fork to attach MC pushrod to clutch pedal lever) fabricated from flat stock, a hex nut, and a steel pin w/ keeper.