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Cfletch |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 168 Joined: 30-January 14 From: Santa Barbara Member No.: 16,941 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
Hey there everyone, working on getting my 6 conversion going here and I was able to hook up a temp fuel system in place of my tank while I am waiting on a few parts. I wanted to get the car to idle with its new fuel pump (not yet regulated down to 3.5psi) rated at 5 PSI max. I wanted to get the carb bodies full of fuel and get some pressure into the system and as soon as the pump turned on with the ignition the carbs essentially started dumping fuel down my intakes. Almost as if there was an internal leak causing fuel to just enter their respective cylinders. I'm new to down draft webers so this confuses me. I popped the top off of one of the carbs and noticed the fuel level was extremely low in the bowls so it was not like the needle and seat were stuck or a float was stuck causing it to overfill. Kind of stumped here as these carbs are rebuilt. Really any suggestions are good here. the float level was set, the needle and seats are good and not sticking at all.
I read somewhere but not in much detail that the bowls are vented? I have these little plunger-esq things in each vent tube that I have not yet pulled out. Would that be the source of my problem? If the bowls couldn't vent its just pressurizing the changes and causing the fuel to just leak down into the engine? |
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Cfletch |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 168 Joined: 30-January 14 From: Santa Barbara Member No.: 16,941 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
Kind of going back to this now that my suspensions fully installed and I am waiting on the last of the brake parts so I have get that squared away. I needed to pull the gas tank to do some welding in the frunk area where the tire goes. There was some rust holes there and I decided to change my fuel pump to the rotary ones that are internally regulated at 3.5lbs instead of using my leaky kind of crappy regulator I didn't like much. Anyway I swapped that out, verified my pressure on the other end and that was good. I also got new plugs (NGKs) instead of the old Bosch ones that were in there prior to me getting the engine. I tried to start it and it ran realllly poorly. I pulled 1 of my plug wires and the Beru fitting (correct terms) basically exploded, springs and resistors went everywhere and the end got stuck on the plug. I spent about a good 2 hours fishing all that stuff out from a few cylinders because that happened multiple times. Because of this I decided to just get some new wires from Clewett and then tried to start it up. Again, it ran really poorly. It seemed like it was missing from various cylinders at a given time and its been hard to pinpoint what from all this change.
Here are the new parts in total: Rotor- resistor-less from a 70s bug, correct height and what not. Checked resistance and there's none. Original cap- I ordered a new one that is really bad quality and so I'm sticking with my original one I have for the car. Spark plugs- ngk bpr6es Wires- Clewett This time around I noticed oil shooting out from the crank case hose, crank case neck on the engine which makes me suspect I have overfilled my engine oil and that is being exacerbated by the fact that the car is not currently level since I was doing that welding on the front. Nose is up. Would the oil level be causing this weird untraceable misfire I seem to be having? At idle it does not run too great, but it idles. At higher RPM I'm flinging oil from the breather and it seems to run ok at higher but not perfect or great. I pulled a plug from a lower temperature cylinder (measured the exhaust headers) to check its spark and at first 2 or so cranks it didn't fire, but then started really sparking good, I'm starting to think the Oil is causing the plugs to foul out at low RPMs and is the source of my problems |
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