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trojanhorsepower |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 925 Joined: 21-September 03 From: Marion, NC Member No.: 1,179 Region Association: None ![]() |
So my car starts fine when I turn on the ignition and run the starter with a remote start switch, but not when the key turns powers the starter? This makes me suspect that the ignition switch is turning off the ignition while in the crank position. Is this a common failure point of these switches? or should I be looking somewhere else?
'74 2l 4lcyl |
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gereed75 |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,385 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I have the same problem but with a different twist. My car (70 six) cranks and fires with the key in crank position but stops running in the run position.
This condition is most prevalent in cold temperatures. When below 40 degrees it takes multiple “crank -start-return to run-dies” cycles to get running. Each cycle it runs a bit better in run. Like it starts running on two cylinders, then four and finally 6. Once the engine is warm it will start normally. When it is in crank, it runs on all cylinders and will take throttle - but when the key is released to run, it cuts to 2 or 4 cylinders, stumbles, won’t take throttle and dies, until eventually (after repeated cycles) it “clears” and runs normally When warm outside it still does this but to a much lesser degree. Typically one cycle of cutting out in run then starts normally, takes a few seconds to clear and then normal (same symptoms as cold but to a much less degree) First thing I did was change the ignition switch- absolutely no improvement Can’t figure it out. Fuel pump runs normally through all this. It is definitely ignition related |
emerygt350 |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,167 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I have the same problem but with a different twist. My car (70 six) cranks and fires with the key in crank position but stops running in the run position. This condition is most prevalent in cold temperatures. When below 40 degrees it takes multiple “crank -start-return to run-dies” cycles to get running. Each cycle it runs a bit better in run. Like it starts running on two cylinders, then four and finally 6. Once the engine is warm it will start normally. When it is in crank, it runs on all cylinders and will take throttle - but when the key is released to run, it cuts to 2 or 4 cylinders, stumbles, won’t take throttle and dies, until eventually (after repeated cycles) it “clears” and runs normally When warm outside it still does this but to a much lesser degree. Typically one cycle of cutting out in run then starts normally, takes a few seconds to clear and then normal (same symptoms as cold but to a much less degree) First thing I did was change the ignition switch- absolutely no improvement Can’t figure it out. Fuel pump runs normally through all this. It is definitely ignition related will it keep running if you run 12volts to the coil? |
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