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914Wes |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 41 Joined: 9-March 22 From: SO CAL Member No.: 26,388 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
I found a stash of ceramic fuses in 8, 16, and 25 amp. About 2-300 of each are available. I was wondering what do you guys figure spare fuses are worth now that they are not being made in ceramic anymore. How would you guys like to purchase spares? I could make them into complete set of 12 for the fuse panel, 1 of each needed depending on year, or perhaps just small 5 packs like the 911 did it with 3 x 8 amp fuses, 1x 16 amp, 1 x 25 amp? Obviously not trying to do this to get rich but would need to make it worth my time to repack/ship fuses.
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Artfrombama |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 354 Joined: 21-January 24 From: North Alabama Member No.: 27,870 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
My thoughts;
The aluminum fuse element over time has a dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic corrosion) with the metal of the fuse block contacts... Viola, electrical resistance/heat. Even though the circuit isn't overloaded enough to blow the fuse, the cheepie fuse melts. I think we all have seen fuse contacts that have overheated and turned color and lost some spring tension. It's a poor design even with the best fuses. |
JamesM |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,132 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() |
My thoughts; The aluminum fuse element over time has a dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic corrosion) with the metal of the fuse block contacts... Viola, electrical resistance/heat. Even though the circuit isn't overloaded enough to blow the fuse, the cheepie fuse melts. I think we all have seen fuse contacts that have overheated and turned color and lost some spring tension. It's a poor design even with the best fuses. We are only assuming what the element is made of based on appearance but have no idea what it actually is, could be tin, or some alloy, whatever. Again I leave that up to the material scientists making the fuses. As shown vintage littlefuses appear to use the same element material that they do today (and also dont melt) so its not even that you are looking for a period correct material so much that you are looking for a fuse from one specific manufacture who is not currently making them. If you think they are somewhat better with no actual data to show why then... cool... again you do you. BTW my vote was that they should be 6 bucks a piece, I mean after all they are not made anymore right? Get em while you can! And then I guess just hope they don't do what a fuse was designed to do and pop cuz then you are just (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of luck. ohhhhh I got a an idea! Install some slightly smaller fuses inline to fuse your "show fuses" so you don't accidently blow them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) In all seriousness though its a sacrificial part, if you don't ever plan on putting 12v to your electrical system then ok, but if you actually drive your car you are going to have to come to terms with the current availability of perfectly functional fuses. I was going to mention something about the dissimilar metals at the connections to every single lightbulb in your electrical system protected by these fuses in question, but then I worry it would cause some of you out there to loose sleep at night. Speaking of, how many of you fuse aficionados still have undamaged factory original backpad lights? I feel like people are going to notice that long before looking at your fuses. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
wonkipop |
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#4
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,016 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
My thoughts; The aluminum fuse element over time has a dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic corrosion) with the metal of the fuse block contacts... Viola, electrical resistance/heat. Even though the circuit isn't overloaded enough to blow the fuse, the cheepie fuse melts. I think we all have seen fuse contacts that have overheated and turned color and lost some spring tension. It's a poor design even with the best fuses. We are only assuming what the element is made of based on appearance but have no idea what it actually is, could be tin, or some alloy, whatever. Again I leave that up to the material scientists making the fuses. As shown vintage littlefuses appear to use the same element material that they do today (and also dont melt) so its not even that you are looking for a period correct material so much that you are looking for a fuse from one specific manufacture who is not currently making them. If you think they are somewhat better with no actual data to show why then... cool... again you do you. BTW my vote was that they should be 6 bucks a piece, I mean after all they are not made anymore right? Get em while you can! And then I guess just hope they don't do what a fuse was designed to do and pop cuz then you are just (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) out of luck. ohhhhh I got a an idea! Install some slightly smaller fuses inline to fuse your "show fuses" so you don't accidently blow them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) In all seriousness though its a sacrificial part, if you don't ever plan on putting 12v to your electrical system then ok, but if you actually drive your car you are going to have to come to terms with the current availability of perfectly functional fuses. I was going to mention something about the dissimilar metals at the connections to every single lightbulb in your electrical system protected by these fuses in question, but then I worry it would cause some of you out there to loose sleep at night. Speaking of, how many of you fuse aficionados still have undamaged factory original backpad lights? I feel like people are going to notice that long before looking at your fuses. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) correct re element. some cheapos have been reported to be aluminium, but all may not be. hard to know what proppa ones are but its bound to be thought through even if silver. bosch went to brass copper in the 90s when lead got banned. they used to use lead/tin which was very good and worked well with the fuse contacts in the board in terms of corrosion etc. i really don't know when it comes to the latest silver ones. i'd guess if the cores are good ala flame test then the filaments with them are similarly serious. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) the fuse material is proppa stuff too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) anyway i believe you and thats a good source of fuses you have. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) ----- folks just got to watch out for the countefeit stuff from you know where. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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