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> Hydraulic clutch (part 2), w/ pics for Ginter & y'all
airsix
post Jun 4 2003, 02:14 AM
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I have bees in my epiglotis
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From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State)
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Had lots of requests for pictures of the hydraulic clutch conversion, so here you go.
Things that have changed since the last episode:
1) re-did the slave mount. Got rid of the stupid pulley bracket and did it right.
2) MC install was a major PITA. Had to cut a chunk out of the pan and make a mounting surface that was flat and angled in the right direction.
3) I found that there is not enough room up next to the steering rack to cut a line and re-flare it after you have discovered that you slipped the flare-nut on backwards before plumbing all the lines (ARRRRGGG!!!!). That's ok, I did a better job the second time anyway.
4) Rebuilt pedal box while I was in there (Had the bronze bushing kit laying around). Thanks Lawrenece for your comments about this last week. I almost skipped it and saved it for another time. Glad I rebuilt it. Big difference.
Ok, here's the pics. (No pic from inside the car 'cuz you can't see anything with the pedal box in the way)
-Ben M.


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airsix
post Jun 4 2003, 10:43 AM
Post #2


I have bees in my epiglotis
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,196
Joined: 7-February 03
From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State)
Member No.: 266



To answer some questions:

Feel: Yes, I like the feel. It's not light. Just smooth. My only complaint is that the residual pressure valve does impede backflow ever so slightly on engagement (when you take your foot OFF the pedal). Nothing you notice normally, but if I 'POP' the clutch I can almost get my foot off the pedal faster than the pedal moves up (Is that "clutch float"?). I have to really pull my foot off as fast as I can to experience this, so I don't expect to ever notice it while driving. If I do I will remove the residual pressure valve and see if I can live without it.

Bleeding: Yes, this system can be pressure bled. There is a bleed nipple on both the slave cyl and the master cyl. This is how I bled the system. In fact, it was the ONLY way I was able to get it bled. I first bled the master cyl and then bled the whole system by opening the bleed nipple on the slave and then applying about 15 psi air pressure to the master cyl reservoir cap vent hole. I just kept refilling the resevoir until the slave stopped pushing bubbles out of the clear vinyl tubing I stuck on the bleed nipple.

Advice: Lets hear from Brad and/or others who've done this. I like everything about my install except for all the trouble it was to mount the master cyl. If someone has an alternative it's probably better. I was also dissapointed that the Tilton MC does not have a sealed reservoir - I mean that rather than having a "tophat" type sealed bladder in the cap that get's sucked down as fluid is consumed it just has a little vent in the cap. I don't like the idea of the fuid being exposed to the atmosphere like that (fluid being hydroscopic and all). Thoughts? I realize the Tilton mc is designed for race applications where fluids would be changed frequently, but this car is a daily driver (despite all the mods).

-Ben M.
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