Electrical Testing - No Engine Options

[DennisV]

Will I do any damage if I drop a battery in a car that has no engine or transmission? I'd like to test the electrical system (i.e., lights, dash, horn, etc.)

Are there any cables, wires, or fuses that I would need to remove or tape off before connecting the battery? The engine harness is also currently out.

I realize without the generator, there will be nothing to charge the battery. I will get a battery tender.

Thank you.

P.S. I read that this Optima Redtop 35 was recommended, but their online fitment tool doesn't agree. In fact, it says "OPTIMA DOES NOT CURRENTLY OFFER A BATTERY IN YOUR SIZE" when I enter 1970 Porsche 914-6.

[Superhawk996]

Would be far wiser to do it using a current limiting power supply. That way if you have an unanticipated short somewhere, you’re not dependent on a smattering of fuses to protect the wiring.

If you don’t want to spring for a cheap power supply, you could use the battery but I’d fuse the battery down to something on the order of 5 amps at the initial connection. You can upsize the fuse gradually as you prove out wiring and add load.

A unfused battery is capable of smoking wiring before you can even disconnect it.

[Flyinlow]

Would be far wiser to do it using a current limiting power supply. That way if you have an unanticipated short somewhere, you’re not dependent on a smattering of fuses to protect the wiring.

If you don’t want to spring for a cheap power supply, you could use the battery but I’d fuse the battery down to something on the order of 5 amps at the initial connection. You can upsize the fuse gradually as you prove out wiring and add load.

A unfused battery is capable of smoking wiring before you can even disconnect it.

Question… could this be done using a battery charger on a 10 amp setting and a fuse say 40 amp?

[Superhawk996]

Would be far wiser to do it using a current limiting power supply. That way if you have an unanticipated short somewhere, you’re not dependent on a smattering of fuses to protect the wiring.

If you don’t want to spring for a cheap power supply, you could use the battery but I’d fuse the battery down to something on the order of 5 amps at the initial connection. You can upsize the fuse gradually as you prove out wiring and add load.

A unfused battery is capable of smoking wiring before you can even disconnect it.

Question… could this be done using a battery charger on a 10 amp setting and a fuse say 40 amp?

A 40A fuse protects nothing.

With a 40A fuse, a short on a 16 or 18 gauge wire will melt it and it won’t bother to blow the 40A fuse.

Fuses are meant to protect wiring - not equipment.

I wouldn’t want to depend on the battery charger to limit the current. I’ve seen chargers that deliver way more than rated capacity to a dead short.

[Flyinlow]

Would be far wiser to do it using a current limiting power supply. That way if you have an unanticipated short somewhere, you’re not dependent on a smattering of fuses to protect the wiring.

If you don’t want to spring for a cheap power supply, you could use the battery but I’d fuse the battery down to something on the order of 5 amps at the initial connection. You can upsize the fuse gradually as you prove out wiring and add load.

A unfused battery is capable of smoking wiring before you can even disconnect it.

Question… could this be done using a battery charger on a 10 amp setting and a fuse say 40 amp?

A 40A fuse protects nothing.

With a 40A fuse, a short on a 16 or 18 gauge wire will melt it and it won’t bother to blow the 40A fuse.

Fuses are meant to protect wiring - not equipment.

I wouldn’t want to depend on the battery charger to limit the current. I’ve seen chargers that deliver way more than rated capacity to a dead short.

Thanks