Center console clocks Options

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Does anybody have a working clock in their center console? It seems like everyone clock has died.

I bought a reproduction clock from Auto Atlanta and it broke in less than a year. Complete waste of money.

Has anybody sent their clock to be rebuilt and if so how did it work out?

I think I read somewhere that only 914 clocks with a date stamp of 75 or 76 can be rebuilt as the internals changed?

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

So while I had my busted clock out I decided to install a new console wiring harness (fabricated by @Puebloswatcop ) because mine looked rather brittle. Great craftsmanship. It was a simple swap out - my car still had the original main wiring harness plugs in the tunnel area where the console wiring harness connects.

I have a working VDO quartz clock from an 80s VW (I believe), that I was going to use until I find a proper 914 clock (or possibly replace with an oil pressure gauge eventually). When I put power on the 80s VW VDO clock directly from the battery it works. But when I plug the clock into the console gauge wiring in the it does not work.



So I broke out the multi-meter. When I test the console harness clock power and ground wires with a multi-meter, it's not reading any power (with the ignition key "on" or "off"). For the clock it should be powered "on" regardless of the key's position. The other two gauges (temp and volt) work as they should (power only when the ignition is "on") and test perfectly with the multimeter.

Next I tested the clock power wire (black) from the main harness where it plugs into the console gauge harness above the tunnel (under the bottom of the console). It was hard to get the multimeter on the metal connectors in those original plastic connection plugs, but I think I was able to make contact to test. The multimeter showed no power on the main harness black power wire and brown ground).



I thought I would consult with the group ...

What is my next move?

Is there another place where I can test it for power further up stream?

Is I possible the metal connectors inside the plastic housing are corroded or wiring broken? Should I break the plastic housing open to inspect (knowing I will then need to put two new female connectors on using shrink wrap over each since of those 2 connections since I will no longer have the plastic housing)?