Winter D jet tinkering, Are parts still available? Options

[robkammer]

All: Started this morning to get the BB's few quirks figured out while it's still winter. Last year the car ran great, but it had trouble staying running for the first 5 miles or so. Cold start no problems, let it sit and idle for 5 minutes, ls no problem. Once underway, as soon as I let off the pedal, it would want to stall. I was able to get through it by using the hand brake, but that's a pain.
I know I have a bad vacuum valve that is supposed to shut the throttle body down on decel, but I've just plugged it and left it place. If it's not plugged, the open vacuum takes the idle way too high. It's been like that for two years, but not for long if I can find a new one.
The AAR is working but I'm not certain about the Thermotine sender. I'm sure Jeff B or someone smarter than me has the specs to bench test one.
If anyone has suggestions on what might be the problem here, I'm open to all suggestions.
Cheers!
Rob

[robkammer]

Update on the BB. Granted, my ramblings may seem disjointed, but today I think it's called ADD. Here's where I am at this point:

Just received a nice decel valve from Ebay, tests good
Thought I found a good Thermo sender on Ebay but it tested NG, as does mine.
The plenum temp sensor tests fine.
The Head sensor is puzzling to me. It tests at 5 ohms at room temp, disconnected. 68 degrees F.
The lead wire shows 12 volts with the key on. What I can't wrap my head around is how this sending unit send info through the hot wire that is the only connection other than ground. It seems to me that when connected there would be a direct short, but the car ran fine with it connected.
I'm going to search for a working Thermotime before putting it back together. Any suggestions on a source would be appreciated.
I reached out the the good DR. but have not heard back
Cheers!

[pbanders]

Just received a nice decel valve from Ebay, tests good

Remember, when you connect it, that the 5 mm port connects to the intake manifold (vacuum), the opposite/end port also connects to the intake manifold, and the side port connects to the air box (atmospheric pressure). Some of the hose diagrams are wrong, this is the correct way to connect it, otherwise, it won't work. It should limit the manifold vacuum to about 18 in. Hg.

Thought I found a good Thermo sender on Ebay but it tested NG, as does mine.

What are the part numbers on the thermo sensors you have? This sensor is open for all temperatures above 32 F and closed for all temperatures below. The CSV is provided +12V during cranking on one terminal, the thermo sensor provides ground to the other terminal of the CSV when it's closed.

The plenum temp sensor tests fine.
The Head sensor is puzzling to me. It tests at 5 ohms at room temp, disconnected. 68 degrees F.

The lead wire shows 12 volts with the key on. What I can't wrap my head around is how this sending unit send info through the hot wire that is the only connection other than ground. It seems to me that when connected there would be a direct short, but the car ran fine with it connected.

If the head temperature sensor tests at 5 ohms 68 F, it's no good. Should test at 2.5K ohm at that temperature. I suggest you test it again, possibly with a different multimeter to be sure.

See ECU Schematic Page 2 and Cylinder Temperature Compensation to understand how the head temperature sensor works in the system with the ECU to adjust the mixture.