WEBER 40 - 914-6 or 911T Carbs, They seem to be the correct carbs but not stock? Options

[ctc911ctc]

1970 914-6 all stock

All,

I am down to the last thing for this engine re-fresh: CARBS

They seem to be in very good condition and since they are missing the Porsche factory mark I am guessing that they were 'cored' on a rebuild sometime prior to my ownership

OR

Are 914-6 carbs NOT market like 911 carbs are???????

Anyway, I have not gone too deep since they are in great shape - the gaskets seem good, the floats are the brass kind but in perfect shape, the bowls are very clean,,,,,,

Can I get some direction on:

1. what to look for in a recently rebuilt carb
2. where is a good reference for setup prior to installation

Any other opinions would be well received,

Thank you Teeners


YES I KNOW

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Pictures will be added later

[ctc911ctc]

SORRRY - pictures are in the Preview but not in the post (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)



I over analyze everything!

Over-Analysis working theory

If you are reading this you are up to speed as to what I am chasing.

I cannot get the car to start when cold (60 degrees F or hotter) without 10-15 tries.

Each try is the same.

Idle handle - full ON
PUMP the gas peddle twice
Grind the starter
Pump the accelerator
Engine immediately starts and then dies.
Repeat 10-15 times
Then engine will start to stay running
Once it is warm and starting it is running smooth, occasional pop and also Smells VERY rich, VERY, VERY rich

This makes little sense too rich and I need to pump it to get it started?

Perhaps the downflow of the carbs (veturi effect) is so weak that I need to keep the fuel pumping from the accel-pump circuit since the jets are not supplying the fuel?

NEXT

Looking at the spark plugs, I see that one side is VERY rich, the other is not.

IDEA

Perhaps once side the carb is working properly (RICH) and the other is running LEAN and the leanness or fuel starvation is causing this hard to keep started effect?

Plugs 1->6, L->R