Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Ron's 914, High oil temp
Ron914
post Mar 17 2026, 01:42 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 488
Joined: 19-April 22
From: Huntington Beach,Ca
Member No.: 26,487
Region Association: Southern California



Hello all,
It's been about 4 months since I passed my smog test and thought I would be on the way to finally be able to drive my 4 year project .

Well I have been enjoying driving it but only for short trips around town because I feel it has a high oil temperature problem . This is after a short drive around town of 30 minutes . A 45 minute drive will bring the needle on the gauge right to the red zone ,which looking at Phil's calibration photo would indicate about 250F , I don't continue to drive once I get to 250F and pull over and let its cool .
Attached Image
Attached Image

Not exactly sure why or if it really is high ( I don't want to damage my new motor ) but I was given a few things to check by the members hers @Superhawk996 , @emerygt350 .

First I checked my oil Temperature sensor to verify type and operation.

It is a VDO 200 C sensor .
Attached Image

I have the later oil gauge . I removed the sensor and placed it in 212F boiling water and it seems within the correct range on the console gauge .

I am using a Efeng turkey fryer thermometer to check against the gauge in console . The thermometer is accurate . The gauge ( apex seems close to the same reading



There was a discussion the other day on this subject with the question of whether missing a cooling tin on bottom of engine could cause the overheating problem @930cabman .

I have the same issue as I have the tin that the shift rod passes through removed because it the shit rod comes into contact with the tin installed and it shifts better with it removed .

Wondering if I should work on getting it reinstalled to help my cooling ?
Attached Image

I have also worked on the cooling flaps /thermostat but will start a new post for those questions .

I saw a comment about the type of oil . It sounds like Synthetic oil might be a better choice for air cooled oil .

I currently have no oil in my motor and was wondering if Mobil Syn oil would be better than putting back in the Valvoline VR1 20-50W ?
Attached Image

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies
infraredcalvin
post Mar 17 2026, 10:20 PM
Post #2


Distracted Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,731
Joined: 25-August 08
From: Ladera Ranch, CA
Member No.: 9,463
Region Association: Southern California



I have one of these, but have never used it so, if you get one YMMV.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Innovate-Motorsports...PkaAoYtEALw_wcB

I’m with the others, you're running too lean/too much advance…. As for oil, ugh, plenty of opinions on that, bottom line, synthetic has good properties for heat, but it’ll find places to leak. Dino is best, many have ‘enough’ zinc even thigh they don't advertise it, but you can look it up, anything labeled high zinc will be more than the recommended needs.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Posts in this topic


Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 18th March 2026 - 01:10 AM
...