Ron's 914, High oil temp Options

[Ron914]

Hello all,
It's been about 4 months since I passed my smog test and thought I would be on the way to finally be able to drive my 4 year project .

Well I have been enjoying driving it but only for short trips around town because I feel it has a high oil temperature problem . This is after a short drive around town of 30 minutes . A 45 minute drive will bring the needle on the gauge right to the red zone ,which looking at Phil's calibration photo would indicate about 250F , I don't continue to drive once I get to 250F and pull over and let its cool .



Not exactly sure why or if it really is high ( I don't want to damage my new motor ) but I was given a few things to check by the members hers @Superhawk996 , @emerygt350 .

First I checked my oil Temperature sensor to verify type and operation.

It is a VDO 200 C sensor .


I have the later oil gauge . I removed the sensor and placed it in 212F boiling water and it seems within the correct range on the console gauge .

I am using a Efeng turkey fryer thermometer to check against the gauge in console . The thermometer is accurate . The gauge ( apex seems close to the same reading



There was a discussion the other day on this subject with the question of whether missing a cooling tin on bottom of engine could cause the overheating problem @930cabman .

I have the same issue as I have the tin that the shift rod passes through removed because it the shit rod comes into contact with the tin installed and it shifts better with it removed .

Wondering if I should work on getting it reinstalled to help my cooling ?


I have also worked on the cooling flaps /thermostat but will start a new post for those questions .

I saw a comment about the type of oil . It sounds like Synthetic oil might be a better choice for air cooled oil .

I currently have no oil in my motor and was wondering if Mobil Syn oil would be better than putting back in the Valvoline VR1 20-50W ?

[emerygt350]

I wouldn't be afraid of trying 40 weight or less if you have plenty of oil pressure (they did come with 30 weight). Not going to impact this much but I think the reasons for using high quality thinner oils when possible are pretty good, particularly from a cooling standpoint. Pushing thick oil through an engine is not going to move as much heat. At the most simple level you are looking at the volume of oil passing across a hot surface. You don' t know what the builder used for tolerances, so you may be running a thick as paste oil on an engine that has very tight bearing tolerances.

[infraredcalvin]

I wouldn't be afraid of trying 40 weight or less if you have plenty of oil pressure (they did come with 30 weight). Not going to impact this much but I think the reasons for using high quality thinner oils when possible are pretty good, particularly from a cooling standpoint. Pushing thick oil through an engine is not going to move as much heat. At the most simple level you are looking at the volume of oil passing across a hot surface. You don' t know what the builder used for tolerances, so you may be running a thick as paste oil on an engine that has very tight bearing tolerances.

this is the whole point of a 20/50...

ugh now I'm getting sucked into this, sorry... Oil isn't his issue, let's not blow this up into an oil thread, there are so many out there and so many opinions, it's ridiculous...