TPS Testing Options

[cabrioartie]

The car is a '74 2.0l, trying to fix all the items wrong after purchase.

Have found the following items bad and have replaced them:
- MPS
- AAR
- Decel Valve
- CHT
- Spark plugs and wires

I have a bogging/lack of power at about 3000 RPMs, I assumed it was the TPS. But, testing it with the 20 click method I get all 20 clicks consistently.

My question is, is this a valid test to ensure the TPS is good?

And if no, how else should I test it?

And if yes, what else could be wrong to cause the problem?

[mgphoto]

The car is a '74 2.0l, trying to fix all the items wrong after purchase.

Have found the following items bad and have replaced them:
- MPS
- AAR
- Decel Valve
- CHT
- Spark plugs and wires

I have a bogging/lack of power at about 3000 RPMs, I assumed it was the TPS. But, testing it with the 20 click method I get all 20 clicks consistently.

My question is, is this a valid test to ensure the TPS is good?

And if no, how else should I test it?

And if yes, what else could be wrong to cause the problem?

I’ve found that the bog down at 3k is a distributor issue. Swooped in a 123 problem solved.

[cabrioartie]

The car is a '74 2.0l, trying to fix all the items wrong after purchase.

Have found the following items bad and have replaced them:
- MPS
- AAR
- Decel Valve
- CHT
- Spark plugs and wires

I have a bogging/lack of power at about 3000 RPMs, I assumed it was the TPS. But, testing it with the 20 click method I get all 20 clicks consistently.

My question is, is this a valid test to ensure the TPS is good?

And if no, how else should I test it?

And if yes, what else could be wrong to cause the problem?

I’ve found that the bog down at 3k is a distributor issue. Swooped in a 123 problem solved.

I actually purchased a 123 when I purchased the car, but I haven't thought about putting it in since I had so many other problems/failed components. I didn't want to change more than one thing at a time, but I've now replaced most of the failed items and could replace the distributor.

I was waiting on the 123 install until the car was running properly just in case the install didn't go well. Then I would know what was causing the problem.

[JeffBowlsby]

I was waiting on the 123 install until the car was running properly just in case the install didn't go well. Then I would know what was causing the problem.

This is astute. Bet you've done this before. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Agree with the above, the bogging down could be several things, even the items replaced if they are not 100% functional. However, have you lubed the advance weights in the dizzy shaft yet? They stick from time to time, and need 1-2 drops of 30wt or similar once a year to free them up. That might explain the hesitation, and if so is an easy fix. Oil goes in the hollow in the dizzy shaft after the rotor is removed to access it.