SOLVED: 911 Oil pressure sender, Can't figure out why it won't work - bad sender(s) Options

[nditiz1]

So I have a distribution block on my engine. A grease gun hose goes from the standard top opening to this block. The block has a large hole and a small hole. The small hole has the standard idiot sensor. This works fine as the light goes off in the dash. A 911 sender is screwed into the large hole. I have a wire going to the gauge in my dash. If I ground the wire to the engine, the gauge pegs at 5 bar/above. The sender is a 0-5bar, the gauge is a 5 bar. What am I missing here? I have even swapped the sender and still I am not getting a reading.

[nditiz1]

Will do. Also, I may actually have 2 bad senders. The one was unknown that I had on originally. I just put it back on and the gauge pegged as though the spring was broken internally. The other one had a worrisome connector at the top (spins) which could indicate it is not making a connection any longer internally. I will buy a new sender.

[Superhawk996]

Will do. Also, I may actually have 2 bad senders. The one was unknown that I had on originally. I just put it back on and the gauge pegged as though the spring was broken internally. The other one had a worrisome connector at the top (spins) which could indicate it is not making a connection any longer internally. I will buy a new sender.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) neither of those are good signs.

Little troubleshooting lesson for general info:
That is why swapping parts to troubleshoot is a bad plan. With the continued enshittification of aftermarket parts this is more relevant than ever.

A multimeter checking continuity won’t lead you astray.

A) check continuity from sender case to metal engine case
B) check continuity on the signal wire back into cabin to back of gauge.

When I was taught troubleshooting long ago in tech school, they would substitute bad spares. If you tried to troubleshoot by swapping spares you would go in circles and fail.