Valve Adjustment Question(s), This task feels more like an art than a science. Options

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

I'm still a newbee on valve adjustments. I have a 73 2.0 (2056).

I've watched Ian's video a dozen or more times. His engine is on a stand the heads are vertical. My engine is in my car so my heads are horizontal. I'm trying to get a feel for how much drag my feeler gauge should have between the valve adjuster screw and the valve stem.

Should the feeler gauge be able to drop through the gap without forcing it through the gap?

Or should it be able to pass through the gap if pushed, but stay "stuck" in the gap without being pushed?

Should there be any bend in the feller gauge to push it through?

[fiacra]

I'm still a newbee on valve adjustments. I have a 73 2.0 (2056).

I've watched Ian's video a dozen or more times. His engine is on a stand the heads are vertical. My engine is in my car so my heads are horizontal. I'm trying to get a feel for how much drag my feeler gauge should have between the valve adjuster screw and the valve stem.

Should the feeler gauge be able to drop through the gap without forcing it through the gap?

Or should it be able to pass through the gap if pushed, but stay "stuck" in the gap without being pushed?

Should there be any bend in the feller gauge to push it through?

I remember how confusing this was the first time I did it on my VW back in the '80s. It is even more difficult on the 914, but it's basically the same technique. Yes, you want a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you pass it through. This does take a bit of feel, but once you feel it you will know what it is. You should not have to force the feeler and it should not get stuck. Remember it is better to be a bit too loose than to be too tight. I use a straight feeler, but you do have to deflect/bend it a bit to get it to go in. It is tight in there so I'm not sure using a feeler with a bent tip is any easier. If I need to, I mark the tin on the underside so I'm not going to get disoriented when I'm under the engine.

I know you didn't ask about any of this.... but apparently here I go anyway! I have a scissor lift so that makes the job easier, but up on jack stands works as well. I use a modified version of the Kap'n method that was taught to me by another member who owns a independent Porsche repair shop. I use a remote starter to turn the engine (transmission in neutral, ignition off). If the valve on one side of the engine is opening then you can adjust the same valve on the other side of the engine as it will be closed. For example, if the exhaust valve is opening ("rocking" as the Kap'n says) on cylinder #4 then you can adjust the exhaust valve on cylinder #2, and so on. I slide around under the car on a creeper, but that is optional although it is more comfortable. It can be a bit more moving back and forth from side to side to do it this way, but I find it easy to do. For me it is certainly easier than trying to move the engine with the wheel, or with the fan, and having to keep popping out from under the car. Also there is just more room with the rear wheels off. The nice thing about working on your own car for the satisfaction of doing it is that you never have to feel in a rush, so whatever technique you use is great as long as it works. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

EDIT: just saw your follow up question. There should be enough friction so that the weight of the feeler gauge will likely cause the feeler to slowly slide out but it should not fall out. I will say that feeling the amount of friction as you slide the feeler gauge is a more accurate way of judging proper adjustment. Don't forget that you will have some tension on the feeler from having deflected/bent it to get in to the gap so as soon as you let go that tension will likely keep the feeler from falling out. It is all a matter of practice and the only way to get the proper feel for it is to do it. I think you'll figure it out rather quickly once you start doing it.