1.8 is out... 2056 is in and it runs!, It's a runner! Wahhooo! Options

[TRP]

This escalated quickly! 1.8 is out, getting ready ready for the 2056 to go in.



I will start to clean up the engine bay and the underside of the car to prep for the new motor.]

[Ninja]

Inside the AFM is where the AFM tension wheel is located. Tighter means less fuel and vice-versa.

When "adjusting" fuel on L-jet Datsun Z cars I would make gross adjustments by adding resistance to the engine temperature sensor with a variable ratio potentiometer (volume control knob) then fine tuning with the AFM wheel.

Absolutely hold the wheel still when loosening the clamp and I would make adjustments in single tooth increments.

Mark original location before loosening anything.

[TRP]

Inside the AFM is where the AFM tension wheel is located. Tighter means less fuel and vice-versa.

When "adjusting" fuel on L-jet Datsun Z cars I would make gross adjustments by adding resistance to the engine temperature sensor with a variable ratio potentiometer (volume control knob) then fine tuning with the AFM wheel.

Absolutely hold the wheel still when loosening the clamp and I would make adjustments in single tooth increments.

Mark original location before loosening anything.

Thank you for this info. Honestly this sounds like something I could easily screw up. Is there a video / thread for how to do this?

Ted

[fiacra]

Inside the AFM is where the AFM tension wheel is located. Tighter means less fuel and vice-versa.

When "adjusting" fuel on L-jet Datsun Z cars I would make gross adjustments by adding resistance to the engine temperature sensor with a variable ratio potentiometer (volume control knob) then fine tuning with the AFM wheel.

Absolutely hold the wheel still when loosening the clamp and I would make adjustments in single tooth increments.

Mark original location before loosening anything.

Thank you for this info. Honestly this sounds like something I could easily screw up. Is there a video / thread for how to do this?

Ted

Ted,

I went down the rabbit hole on my "79 VW Beetle with L-Jet when it wouldn't pass smog and tested at gross polluter levels. Ultimately adjusting the AFM got me to passing numbers.

The first link below has the best explanation of the AFM and how to adjust it. Granted this is for a VW, but the principles are the same. The top of the AFM on a 914 is much easier to access. Don't be afraid to pry the top off. It's held on with silicone sealant and you can use silicone caulk to reseal it. Ninja said it already, but be very careful not to let the wheel get away from you. Mark starting points so you can get back if you need to. A lot of this is self explanatory once you start working on it. There are a lot of warnings out there about not messing with the AFM unless you are a Bosch certified technician. I chose to ignore them all. This is not for the faint of heart, but if I could figure this out and do it then pretty much anyone with fair to middling mechanical skills will also be able to.

How to adjust the AFM:
https://itinerant-air-cooled.com//viewtopic.php?t=7761

It helps to have access to an exhaust gas analyzer (aka a "sniffer") but that's a rare circumstance.

Here's my thread on the Samba about the saga to get my Beetle to pass smog. There are a few other links in there that were helpful, but the one above is really the one you need so no need to read this thread unless you want to. Around the middle of page 2 is probably where you will find the most pertinent information/pictures.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...asc&start=0

Good luck.