Engine Install Tips, 914-6 Order of Operations Options

[DennisV]

If things go well next week, I might be able to take a run at installing the engine in our 914-6.

What should I do to prep for the marriage and / or a sequence of events should I follow to be most efficient? I’ve reviewed the Removing and Installing Engine section in the factory workshop manual. Any advice in addition, or contrary, to those steps?

CURRENTLY
* Engine is on a test stand
* Transmission is on the floor
* Chassis is on its wheels on a 4 post lift
* Drive shafts are attached to the stub axle on the car
* Wiring harness is on engine
* Engine bay is pretty bare. No oil hoses, fuel hoses, fuel pump, engine wiring harness.


ASSUMPTIONS
Before Engine In Car
* Mate transmission to engine
* Remove air cleaner
* Oil hoses routed in engine bay
* Fuel lines installed
* Fuel hoses routed in engine bay
* Fuel pump mounted
* Heat exchangers on engine (ideally, but…)
* Engine bay rubber seals

After Engine In Car
* Drive shafts attached
* Shift rod
* Muffler
* Hot air ducts, flaps
* Air cleaner

QUESTIONS
* Will the ramps or cross-beams of the lift cause clearance or height issues? Below is a shot of the lift.
* Will it be a problem to install the heat exchangers after the engine is in the car? They won’t clear to supports on the test stand.
* Should I install the oil and fuel hoses in the engine bay first?
* If I use the parts catalog listed length on hoses, will I be OK? Or will I wish I hadn't cut the hoses to length until the engine is in?

Thank you.

[SKL1]

Looking at your lift, which is very similiar to mine, I think the clearance between the ramps will be very close or too narrow to "easily" mate the engine/transaxle to the car. I know for sure you can't with a 4 cylinder because of the cross bar mount.

That's why I wish I'd gotten a 2 post lift... but that's a story for another day.

[DennisV]

Looking at your lift, which is very similiar to mine, I think the clearance between the ramps will be very close or too narrow to "easily" mate the engine/transaxle to the car.

Now that I have the engine tin on it is clear the space between the ramps is too narrow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

So I guess this leaves me with the @Gint cantilever method @rgalla9146 suggested or the floor jacks and jack stands "Pelican" method. They both seem precarious to me.

In the jack stands scenario, I guess I am raising the engine to the car, rather than lowering the car onto the engine. I am hoping the Wilding Engineering 911 cradle will give the needed support and a 3/4 ton floor jack the height.

Speaking with a couple folks, they suggested:
* Take one side of the engine tin off. Does it matter which side?
* Having the car nose down may make it hard to get the engine mount bolt installed. Is it worth the time / money to put wheel cribs under the front to reduce the angle?
* Leave the starter on, but be mindful of clearance
* Remove the engine cover
* Carbs can stay on, but remove the air cleaner

Any other 914-6 engine install tips that I will wish I knew in advance?