1.8 is out... 2056 is in and it runs!, It's a runner! Wahhooo! Options

[TRP]

This escalated quickly! 1.8 is out, getting ready ready for the 2056 to go in.



I will start to clean up the engine bay and the underside of the car to prep for the new motor.]

[TRP]

Sooooo.... I have been trying and trying to get the "on power'" AFR to be better than 10:8. I have adjusted and adjusted the big wheel to lean the mid-range to get closer to 14.1 or so, no luck.

Here is what I am working with:




I think I found the issue! I noticed when I first started messing with this AFM, that I was not the first person to open it up. The second thing I noticed was that this AFR didnt have the little tangs that lock the big wheel in place. This one appears to have a metal tab that is supposed to pinch the wheel in place. By chance I noticed the wheel could move, even if I had the screw and tab bottomed out. I moved the big wheel two teeth to lean out the on power, tightened the screw... and was about to walk over to start the car, and the wheel backed off. Repeated the same adjustment... and again it backed off. So, I think thats why I keep getting the same setting.

By an odd turn of events, I ended up with a second AFM! So dug it out, shook out a bunch of leaves/seeds out of the barn door/ flapper area and pried off the black lid.This unit was incredibly clean inside and did not appear to have been opened up before.

Here is thre spare I ended up with:




Notice how it has the big spring that holds the big wheel securely. I think I'm going to make sure it's clean inside the air intake are and install it to see what I get.

I will double check the part numbers to verify they are the same part.

I also think the decel valve is sticking, I did finally get the idle to hang and pinched the big hose well enough to get the idle to immediately drop. Should I try soaking it in WD-40, P-Blaster Krull oil, or kerosene? It looks like they are like $100.00 plus shipping, used on e-bay.

What do y'all think?

[wonkipop]

Sooooo.... I have been trying and trying to get the "on power'" AFR to be better than 10:8. I have adjusted and adjusted the big wheel to lean the mid-range to get closer to 14.1 or so, no luck.

Here is what I am working with:




I think I found the issue! I noticed when I first started messing with this AFM, that I was not the first person to open it up. The second thing I noticed was that this AFR didnt have the little tangs that lock the big wheel in place. This one appears to have a metal tab that is supposed to pinch the wheel in place. By chance I noticed the wheel could move, even if I had the screw and tab bottomed out. I moved the big wheel two teeth to lean out the on power, tightened the screw... and was about to walk over to start the car, and the wheel backed off. Repeated the same adjustment... and again it backed off. So, I think thats why I keep getting the same setting.

By an odd turn of events, I ended up with a second AFM! So dug it out, shook out a bunch of leaves/seeds out of the barn door/ flapper area and pried off the black lid.This unit was incredibly clean inside and did not appear to have been opened up before.

Here is thre spare I ended up with:




Notice how it has the big spring that holds the big wheel securely. I think I'm going to make sure it's clean inside the air intake are and install it to see what I get.

I will double check the part numbers to verify they are the same part.

I also think the decel valve is sticking, I did finally get the idle to hang and pinched the big hose well enough to get the idle to immediately drop. Should I try soaking it in WD-40, P-Blaster Krull oil, or kerosene? It looks like they are like $100.00 plus shipping, used on e-bay.

What do y'all think?

i wonder if you can fit the older style decel valve?
these have the nut on the end and you adjust them to get them to behave just right with engine vacuum.
i don't really see why you could not use one.
i wonder if the later style decel valves were made to be tamper proof because they were emissions devices - technically speaking thats what they were there for.

i can say this reasonably safely now because i know two things.
there is a highly original mercedes coupe in here with d jet. its the second car that was ever fitted with d jet in 1968/69 (VW 1600 fastback being the first). this one is a 1972 MY car. all the D jet is intact. there is no decel valve anywhere. aust spec (ie ROW).
and secondly having studied my recent L jet tech lit find covering the mythical 1976 VW bus L jet model that was a one year only experiment down here, it also had no decel valve in the system.

i'm thinking the decel valve in a 75 L jet is some kind of response to the EPA/CARB etc to make it a non adjustable, tamper proof device because VW were told to.
hmmm?