Fred's 2374 -> 2258 Engine Build Thread Options

[friethmiller]

I can't believe it but after 1-1/2 years of waiting for my engine components to be machined, I am finally picking up the parts tomorrow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif). I will post more after talking to the owner about the issues he found with my case. This is what was holding everything up. Luckily. I have source another case (from my shed) and will be using this one instead. Here's a few pics of the my "other '74" after uncovering it today and wiping off a bit of dust. She needs to ride again! Hoping for Okteenerfest. Stay tuned!

[Ninja]

Hi Fred,

Me thinks that's a great cam choice. It's pretty much what Raby developed and sold (maybe with a different LSA, not sure?).

Might want to run it a little advanced. We have two new ones (163/86b) in the boxes for upcoming projects, but was a little disappointed that we could only get them with 104 degrees lobe separation. But, understand that "custom" cams are months and months and months away. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Webcams makes good cams, so hoping you (and we) are happy with them!

All this to say that your LN lifters may be WebCam ones.

Right! I will find out. Here are the cards from both cams. 104 lc on both.



FYI, my intake/exhaust valves are 44/38 and my exhaust is a full 1 5/8” tangerine header + muffler.

Fred,

Where did you get these thick gaskets? They look like just what we need for some o-ringed oil pumps/projects.

These came with a 26mm maxi-pump from CB Performance. I had already ordered these "thicker" gaskets from them before I found these in the LE's engine box. They'll probably be the same. I think they're arriving tomorrow. I can let you know.

Confirmed on that thicker oil pump gasket from CB Performance. You can buy it as a separate item.

Thanks for checking Fred. Couldn't find it on their website, so was planning to go old skool and call them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .

BTW when you degree the cam, it might be interesting if you could share where you set it and why please. However, kinda hard to get it "right" without a dyno. Looking forward to where you end up setting it either advanced or retarded. Of course it looks like you might be trying to just make sure it's straight up.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Jack speaks the truth!

It's super common to see cams degreed in with a bit of advance (for street use) or a bit of retard (high RPM race use).

But, it all depends on how the restrictions line up in the engine. How well the intake flows against how well the exhaust does.

The T4 is the single hardest "cam timing adjustment" engine I think I've seen yet.
Gota take the puppy completely apart to change anything!

I'm building a Toyota 3S-GTE Turbo MR2 engine with my son and I have adjustable gears. You put it together without the upper timing belt guard and you can alter cam timing in less than 5 minutes.

On that you wait till you're on the dyno before even worrying about cam timing.

I'd want LN, Raby, or Len Hoffman's take on cam timing for your set up if I could access that info.

Without a wizard's oversight, I'd put it in between 2-4 degrees advanced and run it (for street use).

You CAN degree a cam without pistons/rods/valve train, but you cannot find accurate TDC without at least one piston/rod/jug installed. You just take the cam timing reading off of a lifter.

That .050 timing measurement changes if you're taking the reading off of a lifter instead of a spring retainer. It will change depending on your rocker arm ratio.

I believe "off of the lifter" is more accurate than "off of the retainer".


Can you provide a close-up view of the main bearing bore surfaces on the line bored engine?
I'd like to see the surface machine marks.

I'm still having trouble with "how does a fresh line bore be non-concentric" as the machine itself cuts very accurate circles. They can easily be too large or too small (machinist error) but "out of round" seems impossible without a severely worn-out machine.

I use Plasti-Gauge on all of my builds as a final check. It's a verification tool after all the actual measurement are done. Yours looks great!

Plasti-Gauge shrinks with age! If it is 6 months old, it's GONE in my book.

I always buy new from someone like Summit as I'm hoping to get the newest stuff possible.

Believe what you measure OVER what Plasti-guage shows. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

[friethmiller]

Can you provide a close-up view of the main bearing bore surfaces on the line bored engine?
I'd like to see the surface machine marks.

I'm still having trouble with "how does a fresh line bore be non-concentric" as the machine itself cuts very accurate circles. They can easily be too large or too small (machinist error) but "out of round" seems impossible without a severely worn-out machine.

Here's a few pics of the W case saddles. Any vertical marks are from me and my dial bore gauge.





If I use a metal ruler and sit it flush against the #2 saddle, you can see light under saddle #3. Saddle #1 looks pretty good. I'm not sure this ruler is good test but it doesn't lay flat. I made sure not to use #4. Need to find a piece of aluminum bar or something.

First photo show the ruler flat across the #2 saddle, with the headlamp against #3. Second photo shows the gap. Third photo is of saddle #1, no light.





Again, I think I need a better, thicker straight edge.