Hydraulic clutch (part 2), w/ pics for Ginter & y'all Options

[airsix]

Had lots of requests for pictures of the hydraulic clutch conversion, so here you go.
Things that have changed since the last episode:
1) re-did the slave mount. Got rid of the stupid pulley bracket and did it right.
2) MC install was a major PITA. Had to cut a chunk out of the pan and make a mounting surface that was flat and angled in the right direction.
3) I found that there is not enough room up next to the steering rack to cut a line and re-flare it after you have discovered that you slipped the flare-nut on backwards before plumbing all the lines (ARRRRGGG!!!!). That's ok, I did a better job the second time anyway.
4) Rebuilt pedal box while I was in there (Had the bronze bushing kit laying around). Thanks Lawrenece for your comments about this last week. I almost skipped it and saved it for another time. Glad I rebuilt it. Big difference.
Ok, here's the pics. (No pic from inside the car 'cuz you can't see anything with the pedal box in the way)
-Ben M.

[airsix]

Ben, did you need to do any kind of modifications to the stock clutch pedal axle? How did you attached the stock clutch pedal axle to the MC pivot rod ? Did you use some kind of swivel joint there ??

The entire pedal box and its parts were unaltered. The clutch MC actuation rod is attached at the same pivot point that the clutch cable attached to. In the same way that the cable attached to the pivot with a little fork and a pin, the mc actuation rod is attached, but from the front rather than behind. I did not use the clutch cable fork and pin - too small for the larger diameter mc rod. I fabbed a new fork and pin, but it works the same way. I did have to shorten the mc rod a little.

-Ben M.