Any Tips, Tricks, Old School Methods, etc. to loosen stubborn brake line fittings? Options

[914rrr]

Working on my brakes and installing new soft lines in the rear. Used PB Blaster to baptise both soft line fittings to hard lines that to go the proportioning valve. Re-applied each day for a few days.

Went to remove the drivers side soft line and the fitting rounded off before the hard line snapped of just above the fitting. Had a crummy made in India flare wrench laying around that spread right away and was quickly useless. Tried again with an 11 mm Proto combo wrench on the hard line barrel and a 17 mm Indian flare on the bottom soft line. Thought I was making progress until the line broke off just above the fitting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now, I have to replace the drivers side hard line that goes on TOP of the proportioning valve, and possibly the other twin line going to the passenger side. How do you remove THAT fitting on top without pulling the engine?

I could barely get an 11 mm stubby combo wrench on it, but have almost zero room to twist it. I'm in need of solutions, ideas, old timer trick, tips if anybody has any.

[914rrr]

Success!! I was able to remove the passenger side hard line flare nut from the soft line AND the top flare nut on the broken drivers side hard line without damaging either! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dancinnanner.gif)

I bought one of the cheap flare nut crows foot wrench sets from Walmart and a 3/8" flexible ratcheting T-Bar from Harbor Freight.

These made removing and reinstalling the driver's side hard line's top flare nut on the proportioning valve possible. I honestly don't think I could have removed that top flare nut or reinstalled the new one without them!

I also used my trusty vintage 3" C-Jaw Vice Grips (favorite tool in my tool box!) to hold / brace the passenger side rubber hose fitting and the 11 mm flare nut crows foot on the hard line fitting with a 3/8 swivel head ratchet and a long 3/8 extension.