Chassis repair and stiffning panels, These panels are on hundreds of 914's Options

[914ltd]

I have been making these repair panels since 1984. If you have longitudinal rust, door gap problems or excessive body flex, this panel system is a proven fix. I also have sold many to install in track cars and big engine swaps.
This system is the fastest, easiest and least expensive way to solve your chassis problem. Does not require removal of body panels to install. MIG or stick installation.The panel ties into the 3 bolts of the trailing arm mount and extends to the front wheel house if necessary.Excellent instructions included.

This system has been used with Engman's/ Maddog's Porsche 914 Inner Longitudinal Stiffening Kit

$375. Includes stateside shipping!

914 Limited
Brad Mayeur
1162 N. Byerly Hills Dr.
East Peoria, IL. 61611
309-868-4667
P914LTD@yahoo.com

[dug]

These require removing the existing jack points, and the sill support triangles. Then these slip up under the sills to support them.

I'm installing these on my car now. I had some rust around the jack points, so they had to come off anyway. I'm using pieces from restoration design outer longs to patch the area around the jack point that needed to be cut out, then adding Brad's panels over the top. The car will definitely be stiffer and ready for another 50 years:)

If your longs and jack points are rust free, then it makes more sense to do the engman/maddog interior reinforcement. If you haven't taken your rockers off and checked thoroughly, do that before you decide.

cheers,
dug

[friethmiller]

These require removing the existing jack points, and the sill support triangles. Then these slip up under the sills to support them.

I'm installing these on my car now. I had some rust around the jack points, so they had to come off anyway. I'm using pieces from restoration design outer longs to patch the area around the jack point that needed to be cut out, then adding Brad's panels over the top. The car will definitely be stiffer and ready for another 50 years:)

If your longs and jack points are rust free, then it makes more sense to do the engman/maddog interior reinforcement. If you haven't taken your rockers off and checked thoroughly, do that before you decide.

cheers,
dug

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I've done both kits now on two different cars. The RD outside stiffeners are way easier to install, IMO. However, the increase in metal thickness at the door seam makes it a little awkward [later] when installing the inner door seals. Overall, I think the maddog kit provides better support and is worth the extra effort.

[914ltd]

These require removing the existing jack points, and the sill support triangles. Then these slip up under the sills to support them.

I'm installing these on my car now. I had some rust around the jack points, so they had to come off anyway. I'm using pieces from restoration design outer longs to patch the area around the jack point that needed to be cut out, then adding Brad's panels over the top. The car will definitely be stiffer and ready for another 50 years:)

If your longs and jack points are rust free, then it makes more sense to do the engman/maddog interior reinforcement. If you haven't taken your rockers off and checked thoroughly, do that before you decide.

cheers,
dug

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I've done both kits now on two different cars. The RD outside stiffeners are way easier to install, IMO. However, the increase in metal thickness at the door seam makes it a little awkward [later] when installing the inner door seals. Overall, I think the maddog kit provides better support and is worth the extra effort.

While the Engman panels are well designed for chassis stiffness and repair of inner longitudinal and floor edge rust, I don't believe it was designed for addressing door gap and chassis flex which almost exclusively comes from the outer longitudinal jack area and rearward. The chassis panels I sell were specifically created to repair this area and problem. The best test is to lift the chassis in the area of the engine bar (4 cylinder) or the rear of the floor pan. The other benefit of these panels are the go all the way to the "boxed" area below the front fender to tie in the cowl as the original longitudinals did. To check if the cowl has structural problems, determine if the cowl and windshield frame move when the doors are closed.
The increased metal thickness at the door seal area would apply just to the Engman/MD parts. Brad