Need help--Brake pedal goes all the way to floor after several new parts replaced Options

[914xr75]

I posted a few weeks ago about leaking reservoir tubes under the gas tank. I replaced those and the leaking stopped. I bled the calipers, but did not bleed the master cylinder. This was the first time I had about 5% stopping power and the pedal went to the floor, not sure if you'd call it spongy, but there was no resistance. That was a couple weeks ago.

Today I replaced the master with a 17mm ATE, rebuilt one of the front calipers, replaced the front soft lines. The rear steel lines still looked good, so I left them. I bled the new master. It took about an hour of pushing out air bubbles, and two quarts of brake fluid into the system to complete the MC bleeding. Once done, the pedal was still pillow soft.

Now on to the caliper bleeding--I purchased the Motive pressure bleeding system. Pumped it up to 5 psi as recommended by Ian Karr. About 30 seconds later the Motive bottle was at 0 psi. There aren't any fluid leaks in the brake system. I replaced the reservoir seal and added Teflon tape to the fitting in the Motive hose. Still loses pressure.

I tried the HF bleeder you hook up to your compressor. For 3 minutes about 5% fluid and 95% air entered the bottle. About 8 ounces of fluid came out. That is where I left off after a full day of brake work. Then I thought, did I cross the reservoir lines? I don't believe I did that, and I don't think that would cause my situation.

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Sean

[914rrr]

I'll likely not have a pedal pusher assistant, so I'd like to know specifics about the "long hose bleeding method", such as hose ID size, material, length, positioning of the hose, etc.

I'm trying to get the brakes bled so I can drive my teener to the Sotheby's C&C in Nashville this Saturday.

After 2-3 tries I FINALLY have my rear calipers back together without leaking. My local friend who helped me rebuild them the first time rushed / missed several steps and they had to be be disassembled to fix E-brake levers not working, leaks, etc.

I tried using a HF vacuum / pressure pump to bleed the brakes initially, but there seemed to be a steady stream of bubbles coming out of the bleeder hoses and I wasn't seeing much progress with it.

I then tried gravity drip bleeding all 4 calipers at the same time which got me in the ballpark, until one of the outer adjuster o-rings started weeping. So I have to start bleeding all over again after disassembly.