75 Update, and some questions |
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75 Update, and some questions |
solex |
Mar 27 2005, 07:20 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 789 Joined: 12-January 05 From: Long Island, NY Member No.: 3,439 Region Association: North East States |
First thank you all for the help so far, I took some pictures of my 75 before things start to change. So far I have repaired:
- Some electrical problems, mainly related to the defroster heater motor and some interior lights. - Replace the rear struts with Bilsteins HD. - Added Hella H4's up front. - Pressure washed the under carrige (post attached pictures). - Completely flushed the brake fluid - Balanced all 4 tires to correct a vibration at 65 mph. - Purchased a NOS door to replace the drivers door - Purchased a deck lid to repair the original decklid that was missing the bracket for the J-Bolt - Changed the turn signal lenses. On to the questions: Brakes; I replaced the fluid, pressure bled the entire system and the brakes operate poorly. There is no pulling or pulsating, and the pedal feels fine there is simply not enough stopping pressure applied to the rotors. It is impossible to lock up the brakes, although the car will eventually stop I have to be extremely careful. What are your thoughts? Rear Alignment; I noticed that the rear of the drivers side tire is at an angle the back of the tire is farther out then the front of the tire when compared against the fender and the other side of the car. The difference is so much that it would limit the choice of tire width as it appeared to be a problem for the PO. A previous tire must have rubbed on the fender. Is this something that can be fixed by myself if so how would it be done? Attached image(s) |
CptTripps |
Mar 27 2005, 09:32 AM
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#2
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:: Punch and Pie :: Group: Members Posts: 3,584 Joined: 26-December 04 From: Mentor, OH Member No.: 3,342 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Interior: I've got a full interior for sale...cheap too. PM me for details.
Brakes: I had the EXACT same problem, so I attacked the entire system. It's honestly NOT that expensive to replace the pads, lines and the master cylender. I think you'll have about $250 into a master, pads, hard lines, and new flexable lines. I was also told to replace the prop-valve in the rear with a "T". Get a tube bender and go for it. Took me about 4hrs to replace everything. Also take your roters to any independent shop. Have them put them on the lathe, and grind them down. You'll spend $8-$10 per roter and KNOW that they are true. Now I'm about 3 weeks away from actually DRIVING my car, so I can't tell you if it worked well or not, but FWIW, If it still isn't stoping, I don't know WHAT I'll do! |
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