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tat2dphreak |
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stoya, stoya, stoya ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
ok, as you all know by now I have a burnt valve, and I think that's it.
however, I'm catching a lot of grief from people saying I should split the case, do everything!!! I understand that if I want this 1.7 to last another 100k miles I do need to do this... however, if I only need to fix what's wrong until next summer/spring... is it ok, to just do the top-end(rings/heads) now? I plan to completely rebuild next summer, or next winter(2004) at the latest, put 96mm pistons with a 71mm(or 78mm) crank, new cam...the works!!! at most I will put 1-3k miles on the engine between now and then. I hardly drive it in the winter... no heater b/c of headers... so, can you do the rings and heads without cracking the case and checking main bearings, rod bearings and everything that will be replaced in a year anyway? I just didn't want to to all of this and have to do it all again when I trick out the engine... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
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tat2dphreak |
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stoya, stoya, stoya ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
need4speed... aircooled.net is about the cheapest place I've found for T4 stuff... pistons and cylinder sets cost about $300(for low compression dished ones, the flat tpops are higher, if you can find them)... $500 if you go big bore cast(600 forged)
big difference... even a complete gasket kit costs $250(at Zim's) T4 parts about about 3-4 times as expensive as T1! I even considered putting a T1 engine in my teener for a while b/c the parts are so much cheaper and you can still get tons of power... just not as reliably if type 4 parts were as cheap as type 1, this thread wouldn't have even started! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Bleyseng: your test confirms it... it's the valves... every cylinder tested EXACTLY the same with or without a little oil dropped in. also, the valves seem much worse than before... before, I tested the engine cold(I'm sure that has *some* effect... but the numbers were a lot lower as a whole... the new numbers were: 1- 80 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) 2-100 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pinch.gif) so... the heads will be here in a day or 2... tomorrow I pull the engine... and I'll actually do the change friday...(Eagles in Concert on Thursday) thanks tons for your help guys... btw, does anyone that has carbs on their 914 know if the FI intake gaskets will work ok? or where you can get replacement Carb gaskets... I know they are different, but I don't know if they are different enough to matter... but Aircooled.net seems to think so:(from the website) "This is the THICK (1/2 cm/1/4") gasket that keeps the heat away from the intake runners on FI engines. Price per EACH. Don't use these with dual carbs (use the thin ones). Use these for FI applications where your stock ones cracked! These should always be replaced after disassembly (they leak if you don't)" and they don't have the %$ thin ones!!! |
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