Charging Issue, revisited...., not the Voltage regulator |
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Charging Issue, revisited...., not the Voltage regulator |
Aaron Cox |
Apr 16 2005, 12:03 PM
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Professional Lawn Dart Group: Retired Admin Posts: 24,541 Joined: 1-February 03 From: OC Member No.: 219 Region Association: Southern California |
guys,
im having a heck of a time trying to figure out whats the problem. Gen light came on thursday night on my drive home. i measured voltage goin to the battery as follows: car off ~13 volts car idling 14 volts 1500 rpm 15.8 volts BAD i borrowed a new voltage regulator from bill 'grimstead' and it did not rectify the problem. all fuses are fine. all connections are solid. the belt is on nice and snug with the car off, the G light is lit car idling, it is lit, but very dim.... higher the rpm the less bright the bulb becomes.... now that i have eliminated the voltage reg as a failure mode... do i have a crapped out alternator? where is the best place to buy a new alternator? help me before the WCC... i dont want to blow up my optima.... |
ws91420 |
Apr 16 2005, 05:16 PM
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Yes I have one a Lensley 914 Group: Members Posts: 2,063 Joined: 10-September 03 From: Ruther Glen,VA (halfway between sticks and civilization) Member No.: 1,137 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
That proves my point of the brushes. When it got hot the less current light comes on. Next AM brushes making questionable contact light flickers. The car does not produce a sufficent load on its own to load test an alt. Also you can not test an alt with a bad/shorted battery because that will give a false reading. If you go to your FLAPS and they test your alt on the car thay rev it to 2000 rpm and if you listen you hear the machine click and a countdown starts for 60 sec and at the end it clicks again. The click is a load being applied and taken off. If you put your hand over the machine you will feel the that is generated by the resistor that is used. |
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