got a line on a 2.7 six, what else do i need to convert Options

[freezing14]

finally got a line on a decetly priced 2.7 CIS with shroud and alt,, no headers ,, locally imagine that ,, off a front end smashed car ,, you hooooo,,, he is asking 2500 cad,, so 2K us,, what should i check for on the engine and what do i really need to buy for the conversion,, i can fab a lot of stuff, like the sheet metal, the quick six type engine mount, what the deal with the oil tank??? do i need some adapter plate for the 901,, i think i need an early flywheel!! any other insights

the car is a just finished to be restore 72 with a 1.7

[lylegd]

In addition to the items already mentioned by others you can add these items to the list. A voltage regulator that is matched to your alternator. A Capacitive Ignition module and a special mount that attaches to the front edge of the battery tray. Most of the 2.7s used the 3 pin version of the ignition box but check your wiring harness before buying one. You will need to relocate your engine lid latch mechanism from the left side to the right side to make space available for the FI. Chances are you will also have to build engine mount spacers to lower the engine and tranny inside the engine bay. I lowered my engine 1.25 inches. You will also have to tinker with the layout of the large rubber hoses that connect to the warmup air regulator as these hose will compete for space with the front edge of the rear trunk sheet metal. I relocated the warm up regulator valve to the left side of the engine and then modified the hose layout. The FI is too high to fit otherwise. Plan on doing several trial fits of the engine in the engine bay to determine what has to be modified so everything fits. After lowering the engine, you will need to modify the engine surround sheet metal height. You have already mentioned that you were going to fab your own sheet metal surround so just factor this into your design. You will need the matched fuel injection pump, most likely relocated to the front of the car and also high pressure fuel lines. This system runs at 75 psi or so. You then have to built a mount for your fuel filter and fuel accumulator. I put the accumulator inside the engine bay and the pump and filter are up front under the fuel tank. You will need a 911 tachometer and should consider upgrades to 911 type oil pressure and temp gauges. Once the car is running, watch the oil temps and then decide if you need to add an external oil cooler. Some say you need one, others say you don't. I think it depends greatly on whether the engine has been modified for more horsepower and also depends on whether you will be racing the car. Some rewiring of the engine harness and the addition of a 14 pin connector is required. You might want to consider using an internally regulated alternator. This eliminates the need for an external voltage regulator, simplifies the wiring harness and makes it possible to eliminate the relay board inside the engine bay. Regarding the oil tank, don't forget that you need the special filler tube, the oil filter console and several extra hoses too. You should consider installing slightly stiffer rear springs to compensate for the extra weight. You will either have to purchase 914/6 style throttle hardware that attaches to the outside of the transmission intermediate plate or fabricate your own design linkage if you want to use an original 914 type cable. The original 911 oil cooler that came with your engine will work but it has be modified so that the oil fitting on the bottom has a 90 degree turn at the end. Otherwise your lower oil hose secured to the fitting will run smack into the side of the left rear suspension console. You can have a welder heliarc a 90 degree fitting on the end of the pipe. Here is one general suggestion for you to consider. It would be best for you to locate an original 914/6 owner that would be willing to let you put the his/her car up on a hoist long enough for you to take lots of pictures of the bottom of the engine and tranny, oil hoses, oil cooler, shifter linkage and motor mount, and close up photos inside the engine bay. If you can't take the photos then you should browse through websites like this one, looking for photos. Many of these tasks mentioned above are documented in previous postings. Regarding the transmission. Is it a side shifter? If not then consider getting one. You will be better off converting the car to a side shifter then converting it to the original 914/6 shifter linkage. You will also have to fabricate your own shfiter shaft that goes from the firewall back to the tranny. The 914/4 shaft will interfer with your exhaust system. The exact nature of this fabricated shaft will depend on whether you install original heat exchangers or go with headers.

What do you know about the history of the engine? What shape are the heads in? Does it leak oil? Does it burn oil? What are its compression numbers? I would also recommend you install the newer style oil pressure fed chain tensioners on the motor if it doesn't already have this upgrade. The older style tensioners are a major reliability problem just waiting to happen.
You should also consider time serting the case (for the cylinder head studs). I recommend you do this even if the studs haven't yet pulled out. This upgrade would require you to dismantle the engine so it would be a good time to check for any of these problems.
Lyle