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LukeD |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 254 Joined: 14-November 04 From: Atascadero, CA Member No.: 3,117 Region Association: None ![]() |
This thread has made me nervous
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...=ST&f=2&t=33950 I have my engine ready to pull in the morning to do top end rebuild and after reading this thread about lapping the cyl to the heads I am getting worried. I am having my heads re-built and buying new P&C's. What is the proper method when bolting the heads back on? Use seals or lap them. I have no idea how to lap somthing properly except my wife (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/grouphug.gif) so what do I do? I watched Jake's type IV teardown and assembly and he made mention of not using the seals because of the buliten but didn't say anything about lapping either. I am tempted to take my pulled engine down to my local VW shop and having them do all the work because I am scared LOL Luke D |
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scotty914 |
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suby torque rules ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,528 Joined: 20-July 03 From: maryland, the land of 25 year Member No.: 924 ![]() |
well sort of both but i am sure most cutting happens on the heads, i would bet the actual lose of material in less than .0001.
not to perfectly mate the sufaces, if trying to remove major imperfections yes there is
yes the heads should be trued, and hopefully the cylinders are true too, but as some one in the other thread said it is like lapping a valve just to get a perfect seal
yes a copper seal would not melt but any rtv will burn over a short period. as for other engines using head gasket and rtv they dont have temps up to and over 350 degrees once again the amount of material removed is less than you would remove with a piece of 600 grit sand paper |
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