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tat2dphreak |
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#21
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stoya, stoya, stoya ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
my garage isn't exactly built to weld in (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) the only plug is in the ceiling and the cord to the welder doesn't reach... what extension cords are Safe to use with a welder? I don't want to blow a breaker, I don't even know where the fuse box is, and I don't think the apartments would take it too kindly...
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914GT |
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#22
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,100 Joined: 11-October 04 From: Tucson Member No.: 2,923 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
It would be best to pick an existing outlet that has the shortest run of wire (#12) to the circuit breaker panel. Better yet is to wire a dedicated 20A circuit and use a wire gauge appropriate for the load and distance from the breaker panel. For an extension cord I made my own from 50' of #10 3-conductor stranded. I could not find any cords from Home Depot with heavy enough gauge wire. They look thick but it's mostly insulation. The 110V welders will give you trouble at the high current settings when using an undersized extension cord and too much house wiring. As soon as the arc begins the voltage drops at the welder. This messes up the arc as well as causes the wire feed motor to stall. The arc goes out, the voltage pops back up and the process repeats itself. Then you get a crappy weld and blame it on the welder. To be sure you don't have a voltage drop problem you can measure the line voltage at the welder while you are welding (or have someone monitor it). The voltage should not drop more than about 10% the nominal line voltage.
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