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boiledcabbage |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 50 Joined: 23-May 05 From: Ottawa, Canada Member No.: 4,131 ![]() |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/sad.gif) Any suggestions on what to do? the RR outboard pads have zero clearance to the disc and I can't seem to make the outboard adjuster do anything - brakes seem to work fine (other than the sticking pads) - is it likely a seized piston? if so what are my options?
have already considered big hammer help! (stock white 74 1.8 - if I ever get technologically with it I'll post a pic) |
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Eric_Shea |
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Inner Adjusters:
Clockwise = Moves the piston "Out" toward the rotor Counter Clockwise = In Outer Adjusters: Clockwise = In Counter Clockwise = Moves the piston "Out" toward the rotor The adjuster screws are both standard thread, it's just that the inner ones work off a "gear" making the action "reverse." There's also a rebuild thread right here in our "Classics" threads or in my "Caliper Resource Thread" (link below) as well. If you tackle the rebuild, I do "NOT" recommend pulling the handbrake arm as suggested in the PP article. 99.9% of the time it is "NOT" necessary and the kit to reinstall it properly is $50.00 (which is roughly twice the price of a good core if you do happen to have a leak there). Not panning on the PP thread "at all", it's excellent, I just don't think the economics add up for such a procedure (removing the handbrake armature) and I personally wouldn't take the arm off to simply put it back in with old seals. My $0.02 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) |
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