yet another oil tank thread, vellios vs oe Options

[blabla914]

I'm purely interested in the oil control of these two tanks under high cornering loads.

I have a vellios tank purchased from patrick motorsports about 3 years ago. I understand some of the EARLY vellios aluminum tanks had oil control problems, but it was fixed quite some time before I bought mine.

However, at the last autocross I caught my oil pressure gauge jumping around. As I came off a medium speed (about 4000rpm in second) corner I saw the oil pressure gauge make a BIG wiggle. I took it a bit easier the rest of the run and I didn't see it do it again. The car had been idling for at least 15-20 min and had roughly 170F oil temp. I also ran the motor at like 2000rpm in staging a bit to make sure the scavenge pump had a chance to empty the case. I verified the level after the run and it was overfull. I can't get the hang of adding oil to this thing to save my life. It's usually a little low when I show up at autocrosses (it's generally the only time I check it, but I autocross quite a bit) and I always add too much. I'm worried it's doing this when I'm not looking, which is normally the case when I'm trying to look where I'm going. I've been trying to keep an eye on it, but it can be tough to push the car real hard when you're looking at the dash, and it seems it doesn't do if unless I push real hard. Know what I mean?

I am further worried by a tech response I saw a while back in the panorama where a guy wrote in saying he had popped his -6 at the glen. The first question the tech guy asked was if his car had the factory -6 tank. He didn't necessarily ask if the tank was a vellios, but he say that the factory -6 tank should be adequate for what he was doing.

My car has a pretty standard setup with an aluminum tank, no front cooler and -12 aeroquip lines. It's hooked up to a '69 2.0L motor that is mostly E spec. and I use a 7k rpm rev limiter, but shift at 6500 rpm.

I'd be interested to hear from you guys who are running on the track or autocross with the aluminum tank that fits in the stock location. Any pickup problems? Any tricks I should know?

Thanks for your help.

Kelly

[blabla914]

Rich,

I think you are right on. I should have relied on my own knowledge of dry sump setups. I am not currently running a spring in the suction line to the pressure pump. However, I've never talked to someone running my setup with stainless braid line who was. Maybe they have the same problem I do and don't realize it?

It would be tricky to go up to -16 on the entire suction side as my oil cooler has a -12 welded on to it. I knew I should have done a -16 on the cooler. I suppose I could put a -16 fitting and larger line from the tank to the oil cooler. I'll have to double check fitting availability to do that. Of course I'll run a spring too. It also looks like a -16 fitting out of the aluminum tank is really going to interfere with the quarter panel. Surely somebody out there has done a -16 fitting on an aluminum tank. What did you do?

Of course all this is for naught if this tank is just not up to what I want to do. Perhaps I should have gone with the larger front mounted oi tank like Joe has on his 914RS. The only thing I don't get about this is it makes the supply line awefully long. Do you run the anti-collapse spring the whole length? Conventional wisdom with dry sump setups is to mount the oil tank as close the engine as possible, but I see quite a few 911 and 914-6's with front oil tanks. Smart Racing even has a 911 front tank that fits with no cutting. Does anyone know what they recommend for suction line? Joe, your setup looks to be sorted, would you mind sharing what you used for a suction line?

Thanks for your help.

Kelly