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goose2 |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 976 Joined: 30-March 05 From: Eugene, Oregon Member No.: 3,847 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
A local friend is one of the best metal fab guys in the country and we've been kicking around this idea. Is there a big enough market for another, better, oil tank?
I think we could offer it a bit cheaper than what's out there now. Could I get some feedback regarding what would be the ultimate 914-6 oil tank....size, material, construction, features, baffling, etc? |
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ArtechnikA |
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rich herzog ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None ![]() |
construction of "an" oil tank is shown in one of Carroll Smith's books (the first, "Prepare To Win" i think). there's also construction detail in Ron Fornier's "Metalcrafter's Handbook."
tanks need to be tall. they serve to de-aerate the oil and make sure it stays at the bottom, near the pickup, for which flanged labrythine baffles are used. too many baffles and the oil won't get to the pickup fast enough (starvation, backpressure in the scavenge circuit...). too few, and the oil sloshes away from the pickup (oil starvation, excessive pukage...). they're not rocket science but neither are they trivial. they have to be strong enough, structurally, to hold 10-12 quarts of 250F oil without leaking or cracking. you need to be very confident of your welding. if a fitting breaks, the owner will probably lose the engine, and if it spills on the rear tires at speed, possibly the vehicle. i'd consider an alternative design that fits in the stock space -- after someone's done a year or two of track testing... |
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