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tdgray |
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Thank God Nemo is not here to see this ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,706 Joined: 5-August 03 From: Akron, OH Member No.: 984 Region Association: None ![]() |
I am going to attempt to reinstall the engine if I can get the engine bay painted over the weekend.
Few dumb questions... I know some of these have been covered but I am not clear. CV's 1) Is there supposed to be a gasket in between the engine and CV connection? 2) Should I replace the roll pins with new ones? 3) Did we ever determine when replacing the bolts with allen head bolts, what grade they should be and if you want to put a nylock bolt on the back how long they should be? 4) What kind, if any lube should I have handy? General 1) Is installing the engine as easy as removing it? Am I going to have mucho trouble getting the tin back through the hole? Is there anything I can do to aid in the process. 2) Can I do this by myself or must I ply a freind with beer to get a helping hand? Thanks as always for entertaining my stupid questions. |
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ArtechnikA |
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rich herzog ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None ![]() |
1. no, because CV's attach to the transmission, not the engine. each CV gets a gasket. 2. not nexeccary if they are undamaged. 3. yes. and recently. (12,9 ...) 3a. long enough to engage the Nylon; there are many sizes. a short "shear" nut should be adequate. 4. LubroMoly CV Grease or Swepco Moly Grease. G- 1. yes, as long as you can reverse gravity and make the engine leap up into the car. ok - in many ways it's easier (for one thing, you're sure you've got -everything- disconnected...) go slow, check alignment often. force nothing. 2. a friend to steady things while you work the jack is a big help. but with good hydraulics it can be done by one. keep everything stable and secure. |
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