Few stupid ?'s... like your suprised, reinstalling engine Options

[tdgray]

I am going to attempt to reinstall the engine if I can get the engine bay painted over the weekend.

Few dumb questions... I know some of these have been covered but I am not clear.

CV's

1) Is there supposed to be a gasket in between the engine and CV connection?
2) Should I replace the roll pins with new ones?
3) Did we ever determine when replacing the bolts with allen head bolts, what grade they should be and if you want to put a nylock bolt on the back how long they should be?
4) What kind, if any lube should I have handy?

General

1) Is installing the engine as easy as removing it? Am I going to have mucho trouble getting the tin back through the hole? Is there anything I can do to aid in the process.
2) Can I do this by myself or must I ply a freind with beer to get a helping hand?


Thanks as always for entertaining my stupid questions.

[lapuwali]

Well, the CVs don't connect to the engine... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

Yes, there's a thick gasket that goes between the CV and the output flange. If you don't have these, you'll fling grease all over the place, and have a good chance of getting grit into the joint itself, which causes premature failure. Since these joints are NLA, this would be bad.

While you're buying gaskets, also buy NEW bolts and NEW Schnorr washers. You can get the whole thing from PP, GPR, et al. Just buy the 12-point bolts, not the Allens. You'll know they're the right grade. None of this stuff is expensive.

If you use proper washers and torque them properly, there's no need for the nuts on the back side. People regularly drove for tens of thousands of miles on the stock setup. Most of the backing out scenarios are caused by people not installing the right parts correctly.

Installing the engine can be done solo. Just go slow, and think ahead.