Broke the throttle on the six, need CSOB ideas Options

[djm914-6]

It's been a long time comming I suppose. The lever that the pedal pushes on has been tilting to the inboard until the throttle rod rests againts the floor board. Sometimes I'd attempt to bend it back, but most of the time I'd just del with the squeeking.

Well, there's no more squeek because the throttle lever of the pedal assemble broke off. I got the car home by bending he manual throttle lever just enough to catch the throttle cable end. I drove it by pulling back on the lever.

Now, I need some ideas. I know that the six lever isn't so common. What's the changes of having this one welded up and reattached to the pin that goes into the pedal assembly?

[Eric_Shea]

The crank isn't different except for the handthrottle plate that's spot welded to it.

The rod that is broken (the lower left in the picture) is brazed (which is connecting two bits of metal using more heat than soldering, but less heat than welding; a filler material is added, usually bronze. The British usually call it "bronze welding", and scads of racing chassis were (and are) assembled that way) in the bellcrank assembly. They usually make a clean break. And people usually screw them up by trying to weld them with a MIG or other device.

The very best CSOB solution is to have everything cleaned up nicely and take it to a local shop that does brazing (which is connecting two bits of metal using more heat than soldering, but less heat than welding; a filler material is added, usually bronze. The British usually call it "bronze welding", and scads of racing chassis were (and are) assembled that way). I doubt they would charge you more than $10 bucks to braze it back up.

It's hard to braze (which is connecting two bits of metal using more heat than soldering, but less heat than welding; a filler material is added, usually bronze. The British usually call it "bronze welding", and scads of racing chassis were (and are) assembled that way) it properly unless it's really clean. The brazing doesn't like to take because it was plated after the factory brazed it. Clean it up with some fine files and make sure the plating is removed. It should braze (which is connecting two bits of metal using more heat than soldering, but less heat than welding; a filler material is added, usually bronze. The British usually call it "bronze welding", and scads of racing chassis were (and are) assembled that way) up fine after that.

Any good welding shop should be able to take it from there.

Here's one I built last weekend. I used a -4 crank and a piece from the engine lid.