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djm914-6 |
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Happiness is: Getting on the road ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,864 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Burlington MA Member No.: 248 Region Association: None ![]() |
It's been a long time comming I suppose. The lever that the pedal pushes on has been tilting to the inboard until the throttle rod rests againts the floor board. Sometimes I'd attempt to bend it back, but most of the time I'd just del with the squeeking.
Well, there's no more squeek because the throttle lever of the pedal assemble broke off. I got the car home by bending he manual throttle lever just enough to catch the throttle cable end. I drove it by pulling back on the lever. Now, I need some ideas. I know that the six lever isn't so common. What's the changes of having this one welded up and reattached to the pin that goes into the pedal assembly? |
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fiid |
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Turbo Megasquirted Subaru Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,827 Joined: 7-April 03 From: San Francisco, CA Member No.: 530 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
Much is a deceptive word. It's possible to get 70,000psi strength braze joints and 130,000psi is possible with stainless. I don't know what the numbers look like for welds though.
Brazing is also much lower temp than full on welding, so it's easier not to induce warping or material defects. Brazing is crap at butt joints however. It's much better when there is an overlap. You can also braze stuff reasonably easily with a little MAPP/Oxygen setup from Home Despot. Personally - though - I much prefer the MIG. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 02:23 PM |
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