Broke the throttle on the six, need CSOB ideas Options

[djm914-6]

It's been a long time comming I suppose. The lever that the pedal pushes on has been tilting to the inboard until the throttle rod rests againts the floor board. Sometimes I'd attempt to bend it back, but most of the time I'd just del with the squeeking.

Well, there's no more squeek because the throttle lever of the pedal assemble broke off. I got the car home by bending he manual throttle lever just enough to catch the throttle cable end. I drove it by pulling back on the lever.

Now, I need some ideas. I know that the six lever isn't so common. What's the changes of having this one welded up and reattached to the pin that goes into the pedal assembly?

[Eric_Shea]

Hey, did you guys know that brazing is connecting two bits of metal using more heat than soldering, but less heat than welding; a filler material is added, usually bronze. The British usually call it "bronze welding", and scads of racing chassis were (and are) assembled that way?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

QUOTE

the defense rests!

Hilarious. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

OK, here's the fun fact. Both quarters are braized to the rear panel (at least on the 5 chassis I've restored). (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

David, Let me know if you want an assembly. Here's what we could do; If you want to send the bell crank with the core, I'll have Troy braze it for you. Or - just send the bell crank now and I can send you a replacement assembly with your fixed bell crank on it. You would then send the core once you get it out. If you want it (the repaired bell crank) replated it will take an additional week (that's what I would do). All that being said; that is "if" the rod has simply broken loose from the bell crank and there's no further damage. If there's further damage... we'll try. We have both the "Stock" and the "Plated" assemblies in-stock now.

And finally... go out and start soaking the 13mm MC nuts (under your suspension pan) and the floorboard 13mm's that reside in the front section of your pan. Use a good penetrant (PB Blaster or other).