Taking the crank down to bare bones, swapping bearings Options

[DNHunt]

Time to get this thing done so, here's how I pulled the gears on the crank and replaced the #3 main bearing.

First I drilled a countersink into the top of an 8 mm bolt to protect the threads in the nose of the crank thtat secures the fan hub.

[DNHunt]

This is the same engine. I had the same problems the second time around. The oil control rings failed and the cam showed some wear.

I guess now's the time to air things out. Tabs on the oil control rings failed, all four cylinders. It's hard to know why. This ring set certainly was delicate. Tension was minimal. It isn't clear whether I damaged them on insertion or they broke while in use. At any rate we've change oil control rings and I've been assured the new ones will work.

The cam is interesting. The exhaust side wore. It appears that the second one was misground and the ramp rate was extreme. the smaller base circle probably contributed. So I'm going for a different cam. A little more duration and a litlle less lift. Valves open a little more early and late and there isn't as much change near full open.

Now, this has certainly been a pain in the butt. However, both Jake and Charles have stood behind their products to the extreme. It would have been easy for them to blame this on the builder (me) but, they have both spent time and I suspect a good deal of money trying to sort this out. For instance, the pistons and cylinders have been all over and finally ended up with Bob Cousimano at CMW Motorsports. He suggested a different ring which I am going to use. I can't begin to imagine what that cost but, I'm sure the profit is gone. After I tore it down Jake offered to rebuild it and break it in on the dyno at no charge. Even though I'm sure they are eating it on this engine they are still very helpful and friendly. These guys STAND BEHIND THEIR STUFF. You are going to pay for it but you won't be left high and dry.

Anyway my son and I are going to see this through.

Dave